So I'm trying to figure out what to expect -

Bike is a 2011 FLHTC 96cu Stage 1
SE AC
SE 254 Cams
Adjustable Pushrods
SE Clutch Spring
V&H Power Dual Headers (no cats)
Thundercone Mufflers
SE SuperTuner PRO

I took it into HD for the installation of the head pipe, and showed a 6hp increase when we dyno'd it. Since it is NOT dyno tuned, I have to believe when the flashed a map to the SERC, it was a very conservative EPA complaint map. I attached a copy of the dyno for review -

MAX PWR 69.59
MAX TQ 76.68

1. Shouldn't it have more power than that? I mean EVERYTHING is wide open
2. It has a dead spot off idle, then power comes on quick - it runs like it is choked, and I am getting some backfire through the exhaust on decel.
3. The curve looks like it should be a lot smoother - is it my imagination?

Tomorrow I am bringing it for a professional dyno tune - something that utilizes the flexibility of the SuperTuner PRO and not the canned map they used at Harley. Can I expect some decent power increases? A buddy has a similiar setup and he is dynoing 86hp all day long so I'm assuming something isn't right. If anyone out there is versed in this stuff, please let me know - it is a lot of money being spent and I want to be as informed as possible going into it on what to expect, and what I SHOULD expect from this setup.

I appreciate ANY information you may have on this one -

Mike

 

 

Time on the dyno is money well spent, when the person doing tuning knows what they are doing.
Your will pick up more if the Air Fuel Ratio comes down to 14:1 not the factory set 14.7:1 good Luck

 

I'm going to be interested to see the difference - this *quick* dyno sheet was done when the header was put on last Thursday. No dyno tuning, just a map change to the SERT. Their lead tuner at Boston Harley is claiming he can get 10-12 additional HP if I can leave him to tweak it tomorrow morning with a full dyno tuning. I'm just curious how realistic that claim is - fact is, the bike feels like it has it in it, if you know what I mean. I'll post the *after* numbers then for comparison. Until then, I'd be curious as to what others have found -

 

It looks like your A/F ratio is 14.5-15:1 at wide open throttle. For best performance it needs to be right at 13:1 A/F ratio. And yes, it will make a noticeable difference in HP. Your cruise A/F ratio should be around 14 to 14.2:1. Some like to run it a little leaner (14.7-1) for better fuel economy. As for myself, I'd rather have it around 14:1 for the best compromise between fuel economy and power at part throttle. Carbed bikes prefer around 12.5:1 at wide open throttle because their fuel delivery is less precise than an injected engine.

 

You have a dyno read out without actually running on a dyno tuner? How is that achieved, by the exhaust sound?

 

Definitely find a good tuner. Your numbers are way off. Bone stock numbers are around 66hp/80tq. Above poster is correct. A/F should be 13.1 or 13.2 at
wfo throttle.

 

I had my 07SG dynoed and are very satisfied with the numbers. See the dyno chart attached. The air fuel ratio is very important as well as its scale. When the scale is very rough, one can have it's doubts when the line is very smooth. Better not that smooth but a narrower scale and closer to the 13.2 A/F ratio.

 

Running a Dyno and Dyno tuning are different of course - this was a baseline run, no tuning yet - its being done as I write this

 

How'd it turn out?