Screwed up.....scratches
#11
#12
I think the above mentioned products will "hide" the scratches and swirls vs. remove them which if you are as OCD as I am is what you want.
That being said, I have been PROFESSIONALY detailing cars. trucks, boats and bikes for over 20 years. I have owned my own detail shop as well as managed detail shops for dealers such as BMW, Range Rover and Jag.
I the best product I have found that is very user friendly ie for the average Joe is Meguiers M105 and M205.
The 105 is more of the "correction" end of the process, in other words what will remove the imperfections by taking the clear coat down a level.
The 205 is the next step that will polish the clear coat back out and should be followed by a nice wax.
Here is what I would do. it is the same basic process that i use almost daily on anything I detail
1. Wash the bikes fully, as I am washing I usually run a clay bar over what I am going to buff as not to rub any surface contaminents into the paint further then rinse and dry. Blow out all the excess water from the cracks so as you are buffing it doesn't come out and get in the polish and gum it up
2. I am unsure if you have an electric polisher but I use that with a foam or wool pad depending on the severity of the scratches as the wool pads tend to be more aggressive.
3. Buff out the scratches with the 105. I usually tape up anything that I don't want the compound to get built up in, Like down the edges of that piece that goes down the center of the gas tank, maybe the screws that hold the windshield on the bat wing etc etc.
4. Once you have corrected all the imperfctions from the paint with the 105 change pads to a finer foam pad and polish with the 205. It's my experience that the 205 doesn't really ever dry as you are polish but thats OK. No need to use alot. Once it is all polished out and you are happy finish up with anice carnuba paste wax of your choice to preserve the shine.
Again, this is just what I would do, take it or leave it but I have detailed well over 5,000 vehicles in my lifetime so I have a bit of experience, any questions just ask
That being said, I have been PROFESSIONALY detailing cars. trucks, boats and bikes for over 20 years. I have owned my own detail shop as well as managed detail shops for dealers such as BMW, Range Rover and Jag.
I the best product I have found that is very user friendly ie for the average Joe is Meguiers M105 and M205.
The 105 is more of the "correction" end of the process, in other words what will remove the imperfections by taking the clear coat down a level.
The 205 is the next step that will polish the clear coat back out and should be followed by a nice wax.
Here is what I would do. it is the same basic process that i use almost daily on anything I detail
1. Wash the bikes fully, as I am washing I usually run a clay bar over what I am going to buff as not to rub any surface contaminents into the paint further then rinse and dry. Blow out all the excess water from the cracks so as you are buffing it doesn't come out and get in the polish and gum it up
2. I am unsure if you have an electric polisher but I use that with a foam or wool pad depending on the severity of the scratches as the wool pads tend to be more aggressive.
3. Buff out the scratches with the 105. I usually tape up anything that I don't want the compound to get built up in, Like down the edges of that piece that goes down the center of the gas tank, maybe the screws that hold the windshield on the bat wing etc etc.
4. Once you have corrected all the imperfctions from the paint with the 105 change pads to a finer foam pad and polish with the 205. It's my experience that the 205 doesn't really ever dry as you are polish but thats OK. No need to use alot. Once it is all polished out and you are happy finish up with anice carnuba paste wax of your choice to preserve the shine.
Again, this is just what I would do, take it or leave it but I have detailed well over 5,000 vehicles in my lifetime so I have a bit of experience, any questions just ask
#13
Well I'm gonna go to the dealership (pro-team harley) tomorrow and see what they say. I was hoping for the best from them. The guys at the counter seem like great guys. Very helpfull and knowledgeable. And I would love to be able to continue to use the service department. But I cannot overlook this. I know in my heart of hearts that those scratches were not there. Thanks for the help. I'll try the McGuiers first and go from there.
#14
I've polishing cars for years and I am a big fan of Menzerna polish products. The link below will take you to a chart on Autogeek.net showing the different Menzerna products and can be used as a starting point for those who have never done any detail work.
I've produced some absolutely beautiful shines from some of the worst looking and abused finishes on some pretty expensive cars with thes products.
http://www.autogeek.net/menzerna-of-...FcJM4AoduwvEYA
I wouldn't go as far as calling myself a professional detailer, but I did stay at a Holiday Inn last night. Seriously, though the products above are great and a good dual action polisher with foam pads will work wonders and are for the most part safe in a beginners hands as well as a professional. Be careful polishing near a lot near edges as clearcoat in general is thinner there.
I've produced some absolutely beautiful shines from some of the worst looking and abused finishes on some pretty expensive cars with thes products.
http://www.autogeek.net/menzerna-of-...FcJM4AoduwvEYA
I wouldn't go as far as calling myself a professional detailer, but I did stay at a Holiday Inn last night. Seriously, though the products above are great and a good dual action polisher with foam pads will work wonders and are for the most part safe in a beginners hands as well as a professional. Be careful polishing near a lot near edges as clearcoat in general is thinner there.
Last edited by wlibert; 04-08-2012 at 04:38 PM.
#15
#16
#17
I "ALWAYS" tell the dealer, "DO NOT wash the bike".
The first time I had my bike back in for service they washed it. That was a lesson learned. No scratches that I could see, but water spots everywhere.
It took me hours to get it back like it was before I dropped it off.
Glad your dealer is trying to make it right.
The first time I had my bike back in for service they washed it. That was a lesson learned. No scratches that I could see, but water spots everywhere.
It took me hours to get it back like it was before I dropped it off.
Glad your dealer is trying to make it right.
#18
You're absolutely right come to think of it. I took mine in the other day for a warranty recall and he looked it over and I signed off. It came out the shop and I drove it home, (3 hrs). The next day I looked at it while getting on and there was a huge oil smudge one the chrome header cover the size of a large men's hand print. I thought "oh no, it's been heat cycled" it won't come off the chrome but Acetone did it.
#19
I like Meguiars Scratch-X, I'd see if that works for you first before you bring out the big arsenal.
http://www.meguiars.com/en/automotiv...cratchxreg-20/
Havent tried this, but might also help: http://www.meguiars.com/en/automotiv...g17616-swirlx/
http://www.meguiars.com/en/automotiv...cratchxreg-20/
Havent tried this, but might also help: http://www.meguiars.com/en/automotiv...g17616-swirlx/
#20