oil temp guage
#11
#13
I bought and installed one of the 'non Harley' gauges and before I got the fairing back on I decided to change it out to the Harley model. The one I bought didn't exactly match my existing gauges and, while it wasn't THAT obvious it bothered me. I guess it all depends on how picky you are.
#14
The oil sending unit cable, according to instructions, works over to the right frame tube, up to the neck then along (under) the existing wiring harness then into the faring.
My issue is with the supplied pan adapter. The sending unit will not screw into the pan adapter much more than about 2 turns. I have called LSHD and sent a photo to show what I am talking about. Here it is:
#16
Can someone who's installed the HD gauge kit answer me this -
I have bought the HD gauge kit and have been waiting for my next servicing to have it installed.
I would like to install it myself, but was wondering - how high does the oil level sit in the pan???
What I mean is - if I remove the plug to install the sensor, am I going to have oil leaking out on me??
Or is the level below the plug hole and I can get this done w/o making an oily mess?
I know it's an oil temp gauge and needs to have contact with the oil to measure the temp (duh)...
but is it sitting in oil the entire time, so I have to drain oil to install, or can it be done on a cold engine without removing any oil?
Also - I am thinking I want to move the Voltage Meter Gauge over to replace the Air Temp, and place the oil temp gauge with the oil pressure gauge.
That way - one glance and I can see how my oil's doing, rather than having an oil gauge on each side of the fairing.
Has anyone done that? do I need to extend any wiring, or can it be done with just moving things around?
Thanks
I would like to install it myself, but was wondering - how high does the oil level sit in the pan???
What I mean is - if I remove the plug to install the sensor, am I going to have oil leaking out on me??
Or is the level below the plug hole and I can get this done w/o making an oily mess?
I know it's an oil temp gauge and needs to have contact with the oil to measure the temp (duh)...
but is it sitting in oil the entire time, so I have to drain oil to install, or can it be done on a cold engine without removing any oil?
Also - I am thinking I want to move the Voltage Meter Gauge over to replace the Air Temp, and place the oil temp gauge with the oil pressure gauge.
That way - one glance and I can see how my oil's doing, rather than having an oil gauge on each side of the fairing.
Has anyone done that? do I need to extend any wiring, or can it be done with just moving things around?
Thanks
#17
You have to drain the oil. High temp Pipe sealant is required on the brass fittings. Gotta get the hole clean of oil so sealant will cure. Takes several hours to cure properly. Worth doing right since you could lose your oil if it comes out. I would never trust the dealer to do this install. But thats just me.
#18
You have to drain the oil. High temp Pipe sealant is required on the brass fittings. Gotta get the hole clean of oil so sealant will cure. Takes several hours to cure properly. Worth doing right since you could lose your oil if it comes out. I would never trust the dealer to do this install. But thats just me.
EDIT: I just read the HD instruction sheet and they do say to drain the oil and use Locktite 565.
The instructions for the aftermarket model from parts4powertoys says the opposite.
Go figure.
Last edited by nvsteve; 04-02-2012 at 02:30 PM.
#19
I have bought the HD gauge kit and have been waiting for my next servicing to have it installed.
I would like to install it myself, but was wondering - how high does the oil level sit in the pan???
What I mean is - if I remove the plug to install the sensor, am I going to have oil leaking out on me??
Or is the level below the plug hole and I can get this done w/o making an oily mess?
I know it's an oil temp gauge and needs to have contact with the oil to measure the temp (duh)...
but is it sitting in oil the entire time, so I have to drain oil to install, or can it be done on a cold engine without removing any oil?
Also - I am thinking I want to move the Voltage Meter Gauge over to replace the Air Temp, and place the oil temp gauge with the oil pressure gauge.
That way - one glance and I can see how my oil's doing, rather than having an oil gauge on each side of the fairing.
Has anyone done that? do I need to extend any wiring, or can it be done with just moving things around?
Thanks
I would like to install it myself, but was wondering - how high does the oil level sit in the pan???
What I mean is - if I remove the plug to install the sensor, am I going to have oil leaking out on me??
Or is the level below the plug hole and I can get this done w/o making an oily mess?
I know it's an oil temp gauge and needs to have contact with the oil to measure the temp (duh)...
but is it sitting in oil the entire time, so I have to drain oil to install, or can it be done on a cold engine without removing any oil?
Also - I am thinking I want to move the Voltage Meter Gauge over to replace the Air Temp, and place the oil temp gauge with the oil pressure gauge.
That way - one glance and I can see how my oil's doing, rather than having an oil gauge on each side of the fairing.
Has anyone done that? do I need to extend any wiring, or can it be done with just moving things around?
Thanks
I did not drain the oil when I installed mine ('11 Ultra Classic). I had mine on a jack and just removed the plug and let it drain down to a dribble and then installed the plug with loctite.
I also moved the amp meter to the left side of the fairing below the fuel gauge and placed the oil temp below the oil pressure. Just a matter of moving some wires around. Pretty straight forward install.
#20
Anyway, Loctite 565 is a high temp pipe sealant more than it is a thread locker. Permatex makes a substitute if you can't find the Loctite product locally...and it is hard to find locally.
I don't think that either product will set up properly in an oil contaminated thread. That's why you drain the oil, remove the plug and clean the pan threads, apply the appropriate pipe sealant on the brass pan adapter (and the sending unit threads), install both and let it set up for 24 hours, then refill the oil. Getting in a hurry on this project is not a good idea IMHO.
There is no torque spec in the HD instructions. In fact, the HD instructions are very poorly written and illustrated in my opinion. I'll probably go up close to the drain plug torque value, but not all the way since this is brass and the threads are somewhat self sealing anyway.