How much does it cost to go from 103 to 110
#12
I totally agree as posted above, that if you are going to
upgrade, go with either Fuel Moto or T-Mans 107 kit.
Although I have a CVO 110" Harley motor, If I had a 103"
motor. I would go with T-Mans 107 kit or a 120r motor.
Alot of folks talk down on the 110" factory motors. They
also talk down on a stock 88", 96", 103" etc. etc. But with money
you can make any of the motors a super hp/tq motor. It's just
how much you are willing to spend.
But let face the real world.
A stock evo 80" can't get the #'s of a stock 88" motor.
A stock 88" can't get the #'s of a 96" stock motor.
A stock 96" can't get the #'s of a 103" stock motor.
A stock 103" can't get the #'s of a 110" stock motor.
And so on.........
Now a built motor is a whole different story!
Bottom line is how deep are your pockets?
Good Luck and Ride Safe,
YELLOWBIRD
upgrade, go with either Fuel Moto or T-Mans 107 kit.
Although I have a CVO 110" Harley motor, If I had a 103"
motor. I would go with T-Mans 107 kit or a 120r motor.
Alot of folks talk down on the 110" factory motors. They
also talk down on a stock 88", 96", 103" etc. etc. But with money
you can make any of the motors a super hp/tq motor. It's just
how much you are willing to spend.
But let face the real world.
A stock evo 80" can't get the #'s of a stock 88" motor.
A stock 88" can't get the #'s of a 96" stock motor.
A stock 96" can't get the #'s of a 103" stock motor.
A stock 103" can't get the #'s of a 110" stock motor.
And so on.........
Now a built motor is a whole different story!
Bottom line is how deep are your pockets?
Good Luck and Ride Safe,
YELLOWBIRD
#13
My dealer gave me a rough figure of $1.5 - $2K labor for an engine build (depends on which kit, but the spread was about $500. Then just add parts - chose your kit and any upgrades such as clutch, crank true/weld etc.
I have a 110 and not fond of it. I would go a different route myself. Like everyone says the labor is about the same between most options. The 110 isn't that hyper compared to a 103 stage 3/4 for going to a built 107.
I think the best deal was the 120R. You could get one for $4500 in the crate. Add the TB/clutch and done. The labor is much less since its just a swap. Dyno and done. Then sell the 103 to recoup 50% of the 120R cost. The 120R ends up costing similar $$$ as the 110 build - course more effort to sell the 103...
I have a 110 and not fond of it. I would go a different route myself. Like everyone says the labor is about the same between most options. The 110 isn't that hyper compared to a 103 stage 3/4 for going to a built 107.
I think the best deal was the 120R. You could get one for $4500 in the crate. Add the TB/clutch and done. The labor is much less since its just a swap. Dyno and done. Then sell the 103 to recoup 50% of the 120R cost. The 120R ends up costing similar $$$ as the 110 build - course more effort to sell the 103...
#14
#15
My dealer gave me a rough figure of $1.5 - $2K labor for an engine build (depends on which kit, but the spread was about $500. Then just add parts - chose your kit and any upgrades such as clutch, crank true/weld etc.
I have a 110 and not fond of it. I would go a different route myself. Like everyone says the labor is about the same between most options. The 110 isn't that hyper compared to a 103 stage 3/4 for going to a built 107.
I think the best deal was the 120R. You could get one for $4500 in the crate. Add the TB/clutch and done. The labor is much less since its just a swap. Dyno and done. Then sell the 103 to recoup 50% of the 120R cost. The 120R ends up costing similar $$$ as the 110 build - course more effort to sell the 103...
I have a 110 and not fond of it. I would go a different route myself. Like everyone says the labor is about the same between most options. The 110 isn't that hyper compared to a 103 stage 3/4 for going to a built 107.
I think the best deal was the 120R. You could get one for $4500 in the crate. Add the TB/clutch and done. The labor is much less since its just a swap. Dyno and done. Then sell the 103 to recoup 50% of the 120R cost. The 120R ends up costing similar $$$ as the 110 build - course more effort to sell the 103...
#17
You should verify that.
Police cams were used in some models of the earlier motors ( up to Evo).
But cop bikes were sometime high compression, high speed ( pursuit, highway patrol), sometimes low compression, low speed ( parade, idling) depending on the agency ordering.
AFAIK, the Police motor program went away with the twin cam, where Hi-po motors went away although larger displacement motors were offered.
Mike
Police cams were used in some models of the earlier motors ( up to Evo).
But cop bikes were sometime high compression, high speed ( pursuit, highway patrol), sometimes low compression, low speed ( parade, idling) depending on the agency ordering.
AFAIK, the Police motor program went away with the twin cam, where Hi-po motors went away although larger displacement motors were offered.
Mike
#18
You should verify that.
Police cams were used in some models of the earlier motors ( up to Evo).
But cop bikes were sometime high compression, high speed ( pursuit, highway patrol), sometimes low compression, low speed ( parade, idling) depending on the agency ordering.
AFAIK, the Police motor program went away with the twin cam, where Hi-po motors went away although larger displacement motors were offered.
Mike
Police cams were used in some models of the earlier motors ( up to Evo).
But cop bikes were sometime high compression, high speed ( pursuit, highway patrol), sometimes low compression, low speed ( parade, idling) depending on the agency ordering.
AFAIK, the Police motor program went away with the twin cam, where Hi-po motors went away although larger displacement motors were offered.
Mike
I know it has a different cam, alt, and wire harness (or whats left from a quick cut and pull equipment). The surprising part is it can still get 40mpg.
Last edited by thenoaa; 03-29-2012 at 03:10 PM. Reason: add info