2007 Electra Glide Standard. 2600 + miles.
I noticed small amount of oil on bottom side of frame collecting around a cable tie. It has not been enough to drip on garage floor. After further inspection it looks as if there is also oil around a bolt at the bottom of the crank case.
I looked in the service manual and it is bolt #9 of the tightening sequence, and should be 19 ft lbs. (typing this from memory, I will have to reread at home to confirm 19 is right) All other bolts I can see are free from oil.

Here is the question...can I just torque this one bolt to spec? I know the manual says to follow a specific tightening pattern in two stages. But if it looks as if I have a leak around one bolt and others are clean, can/should I just tighten the one to spec?

I am not much of a wrench, but want to learn. Bike is still under extended warranty and I can schedule and take it back to dealer.....but weather just started warming up (have put on 500 miles in last couple weeks) and I really don't want to drop it off at dealer and be with out it for days for something simple!

Thanks.

 

you are paying for a warranty, let it work for you.

if you are interested ask to watch, let them know that you are interested in what they find.

it may be motor oil, primary or tranny lube-


If you want to be a detective, spray drug store foot powder at the suspect area, the powder will wash away from the source of a leak or seep.

while the oil may be collecting near a nut, it may be there by gravity

it you are thinking the tranny end over ( trap door) torque specs on these have been changed to 25 ft pounds on later models and that may apply to your bike too, the dealer would know. The lower 2 bolts to which the exhaust bracket attaches can back out causing a seep/leak

Mike

 

I don't think that re-torquing one bolt will make any difference.

 

It's absolutely ok to tighten one bolt, but as long as your at it I would go over all of them. The sequence specified in the manual is for the purpose of mating the surfaces evenly during assembly. Your part is already mated so the torque sequence is irrelevant at this point. Just check all of the bolts in any sequence you want at this point.

Another suggestion - If you're using a torque wrench and want to ensure consistency, it's a good idea to back each bolt off slightly (one at a time), then torque to the specified value. The reason for this is because a bolt that is already torque to a specified value will require a higher amount of torque to rotate it. This phenomenon is known as "breakaway torque".

As for the suggestion to use your warranty, that's your call. Personally, that would be my last resort for something so simple.

 

There will be a lot of different ideas on whether to take advantage of your extended warranty or to undertake the task yourself but, let me offer this opinion to you .... I would suggest that you at least stop by the dealer and ask them to look at it, and if they assure you that all is okay ( "Don't worry about it" ) have them give you a service copy that says it was inspected ( on the specific date ) and no problem was found ( or service was not recommended at this time ) so that, in the event of problems down the road, and your warranty has expired, you will at least have a leg to stand on. I was in the automotive repair business for longer than I care to say and I remember countless times that this simple procedure paid off for customers .... just my.02 cents worth ( and it didn't cost you a penny ) Good Luck Brother.

 

This is very good advice and may give you some peace of mind.

If it's weeping a bit, torquing one bolt won't hurt...but may not help either.

Good luck and keep us posted.

 

I would agree with Uncle Larry, although that said I would be inclined to had the dealer sort it anyway.

Things can happen during even the most simple procedures - bolts snap or you damage the head. I know it shouldn't and I know it is unlikely, but IF it does then suddenly you're the one looking like you are clueless and have been messing with it.

In my business we take warranty claims seriously and always try to really take care of the customer. I see a well serviced warranty as a great opportunity to win a customer for life. On the flip side, I get pretty annoyed and think it is rude when someone messes with something and then wants it fixed on my account - even if it was legit.

Just my 2 pennies

 

Thank you for your replys.
I decided to take the advice given here and I called my dealer.

They can not get me in until April 6 but they said it sounds like a known problem where a brace underneath has two bolts that sometimes seep and if this is the problem they can fix it while I wait and will cost less than the deductable for the warranty.

Guess I will be patient and hope it is as simple as he said it sounds like.

Thanks again for the replys.

 

sounds like he's talking about the tranny trap door I referenced above.

an easy way to get to then is to use a 1/4" screwdriver bit, slide it in butt end first, and turn with an open end wrench, new torque spec is 25 ft lbs

watch for that one, if the tranny lube dumps in front of your rear tire on a curve, they'll be fixing more than a leak

screw #3 in this diagram ( and the screw in the forward position of it) hold the exhaust bracket:

http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche....dmc&A=708&B=16

Mike

 

If it was mine,I would not clean up the leaking area.Get the bike hot and take it to the dealer for the SW to see it.
You paid for the waranty!