brake squeak decision on which pads
#1
brake squeak decision on which pads
Ok, so I have a 2008 with the pain in the a$$ brake squeak returning like every 2 weeks after i wipe it down. So i am planning on replacing them this month. I know that Harley pads ($50.00) ish have a paste and a template to apply it that is supposed to stop the squeak. I would like to know if it works. 2nd option is to get the Lyndall z pads that I have heard about. question is.. would i just use like disc brake quiet for my truck on the back of the Lyndalls? and would the squeal return? If the Harley fix works then I'll just go that route to be sure. need some input here.. thanks Jeff
#2
I use the Lyndall z pads on my bike, bought one of the ebay three pack deals so I could change them all. The rear didn't need it but thought I would try them anyways, brake dust is cut in half and they work maybe a little better than stock. But if I can cut down on cleaning time it was worth it. I would just change the pads, pretty easy job.
#3
I just put on some Lyndall Z-plus pads all the way around this past Sunday. Rode 70 miles. No squeal or odd noises and good stopping. I installed them to reduce or hopefully eliminate brake dust. Got them off ebay for $125 shipped. Didn't use any anti-squeal paste or anything like that...its not needed.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/LYNDALL-Z-PL...ht_1118wt_1179
http://www.ebay.com/itm/LYNDALL-Z-PL...ht_1118wt_1179
#4
#5
I get good results with stock pads, there are others and my fxr has had a set of ebc's for a long time
hard pads give long life, little dust
and are more likely to squeak
soft pads are more likely to be quiet, but less life, more dust
the "magic" is in the install*.
the squeak is caused by the brake pad vibrating.
to prevent this, the pins the caliper slides on, needs to be clean and lubed
the mounting hardware for the pads needs to be clean, also the surface to which the pads are mounted, so that the pads are fixed firmly with no "wiggle room" in which to vibrate.
anti-squeak paste or a RTV silicone is often applied to the back of the pads- this soft substance is to dampen and resist vibrations
and as suggested above the pads can be chamfered at the leading edge ( the bottom/rearward edge)
pads that have been dragged and overheated may be glazed on the surface, and can be sanded to remove the glaze or replaced altogether.
when pads are replaced, before pushing the piston back into the bore, clean the area as best you can.
crack the bleeder and push the pistons back. close the bleeder.
this will expel the most corrupted of the brake fluid.
check fluid level before riding.
pump up the brakes in the driveway before going around the block
mike
*( like many problems often the mere act of installing a new part, cleans or properly tensions something which was causing a problem- especially with electrical stuff)
hard pads give long life, little dust
and are more likely to squeak
soft pads are more likely to be quiet, but less life, more dust
the "magic" is in the install*.
the squeak is caused by the brake pad vibrating.
to prevent this, the pins the caliper slides on, needs to be clean and lubed
the mounting hardware for the pads needs to be clean, also the surface to which the pads are mounted, so that the pads are fixed firmly with no "wiggle room" in which to vibrate.
anti-squeak paste or a RTV silicone is often applied to the back of the pads- this soft substance is to dampen and resist vibrations
and as suggested above the pads can be chamfered at the leading edge ( the bottom/rearward edge)
pads that have been dragged and overheated may be glazed on the surface, and can be sanded to remove the glaze or replaced altogether.
when pads are replaced, before pushing the piston back into the bore, clean the area as best you can.
crack the bleeder and push the pistons back. close the bleeder.
this will expel the most corrupted of the brake fluid.
check fluid level before riding.
pump up the brakes in the driveway before going around the block
mike
*( like many problems often the mere act of installing a new part, cleans or properly tensions something which was causing a problem- especially with electrical stuff)
Last edited by mkguitar; 02-29-2012 at 12:07 AM.
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