Brake Pad replacement: Master Cylinder
#1
Brake Pad replacement: Master Cylinder
I have searched, but not found...
When replacing the front brake pads, the Service Manual says to crack open the Master Cylinder. Is this really necessary?
Surely the pots can be squeezed back into the bores with an appropriate tool? It seems crazy to introduce air into the system un-necessarily. Plus I'm leary of getting paint buggering brake fluid all over the place.
So, should I follow the manufacturer's instructions? Or can I be confident this will not cause "death or serious injury".
When replacing the front brake pads, the Service Manual says to crack open the Master Cylinder. Is this really necessary?
Surely the pots can be squeezed back into the bores with an appropriate tool? It seems crazy to introduce air into the system un-necessarily. Plus I'm leary of getting paint buggering brake fluid all over the place.
So, should I follow the manufacturer's instructions? Or can I be confident this will not cause "death or serious injury".
#2
I have searched, but not found...
When replacing the front brake pads, the Service Manual says to crack open the Master Cylinder. Is this really necessary?
Surely the pots can be squeezed back into the bores with an appropriate tool? It seems crazy to introduce air into the system un-necessarily. Plus I'm leary of getting paint buggering brake fluid all over the place.
So, should I follow the manufacturer's instructions? Or can I be confident this will not cause "death or serious injury".
When replacing the front brake pads, the Service Manual says to crack open the Master Cylinder. Is this really necessary?
Surely the pots can be squeezed back into the bores with an appropriate tool? It seems crazy to introduce air into the system un-necessarily. Plus I'm leary of getting paint buggering brake fluid all over the place.
So, should I follow the manufacturer's instructions? Or can I be confident this will not cause "death or serious injury".
Good question, I was about to change mine and wondering the same thing.
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#3
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If your fluid level is a little low, just loosen the cap, wrap with an old rag to prevent spills. Only compress into the bores enough to get new pads on and over the rotors. Not such a big deal, new pads will just push some fluid up into the reservoir. I generally start the job with reservoir about half full, key is don't let air in the system. No problem...
#4
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I had sticky Brake issues and ended up rebuilding the calipers... very easy..
The resevoir is designed to be "full" with new pads and still have enough fluid to compensate when pads are worn..
I guess if you added fluid with half worn pads or lower...you may overflow it when compresssing the pistons. that is if you keep it full as high as possible (which I dont)
The resevoir is designed to be "full" with new pads and still have enough fluid to compensate when pads are worn..
I guess if you added fluid with half worn pads or lower...you may overflow it when compresssing the pistons. that is if you keep it full as high as possible (which I dont)
Last edited by katobird; 02-25-2012 at 10:10 AM.
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