I have a 2010 Roadking and as we all know they run hot, was thinking about putting on the HD oil cooler but wanted to know if anyone that is using could tell me how much in degrees it drops the oil temp...

 

it depends on the ambient temperature and use ( or no) of fairing lowers and chrome covers over the oil cooler ( some guys like chrome and cover the oil cooler and/or the regulator fins)

in general more oil capacity is a good thing and it will do that.

and it does help with oil temps.

part of oil's job is to remove heat from the hottest parts of the motor and carry the heat away.

the placement of the oil cooler is after the oil pump, so it is cooled, then directed to the motor internals


mike

 

the Jagg 10 row low mount works better , 30% more cooling area and is angled to catch more air , I replaced my HD Unit with the Jagg and it lowered my oil temp 20*-25* below what the HD Unit did

 

I've had an HD oil cooler for about 3 years. It lowers the oil temp an average of 25 degrees.

 

oil cooler cost? ease of installation?

 

The one through HD is $299 and it does not look too hard...

 

My SE Ultra came with a cooler but after a lot of reading I am actually thinking about replacing it with the Oil Bud cooker. Do a google and read about it. And looks tough as nails.

 

Yeah, I have looked at that one and others, my problem is the budget. I figured if the Harley oil cooler worked pretty good I would go with it for now. I like how the Oil Bud is hidden but it is twice the price...

 

RoadRich, I'm happy with the performance of the H-D oil cooler and I mostly see temps in the 200-220 degree range, but it takes about 30-40 minutes of ride time to reach these oil temps dependent on air temp and speeds. Sitting sill for any length of time the motor will still heat up since there's no fan on the H-D oil cooler.
If you go with the H-D oil cooler (#26155-11) here's some install tips: Took me about 2 easy hours. Made sure to cover the front fender to safeguard against nicks and dings. Get a 1/2 in. socket with 7/16 in. hex bit needed to install the oil filter adapter. Hard to find, got mine from Grainger and it was pricey, but a must have for properly torquing down this part. Used a skin coat of black RTV on the gasket of the oil cooler adapter assembly. Some other needed tools are a 7/8 in. socket and extension to take out the original oil filter adapter and a 7/16 in. deep socket to loosen up the voltage regulator so that the chrome cover can be fitted onto the oil cooler. Also need a T-45 torx bit for the oil cooler bolts.
If you have lower fairings like me you'll want to remove the left one so that you have room to work. Three bolts gets the fairing off with a T-40 torx bit needed for the bottom bolt.
Much easier to install the new oil hoses onto the oil cooler before bolting it onto the frame. Orient the hose clamps so that you will easily be able to get a screw driver or socket onto them when mounted on the bike.
I only lost a very small amount of oil when removing the oil filter so no need to drain the oil prior to install and I could have reused my low mileage oil filter, but I dented it while twisting it off with a belt oil filter wrench. I bend an old x-ray film to form a catch under the filter so that any oil draining out when the filter is unscrewed gets routed out and down to my drain pan instead of dripping all over my frame and motor mounts.
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good post. i didn't do the light film of permatex on the gasket, and i do get some oil seepage. gonna pull the adapter off and do the sealer and retorque.

on the 7/16 hex key, i shortcutted that step by using a bolt with 2 nuts on it. that way i could us the bolt head in the adapter, and a 7/16 socket on the torque wrench and the 2 nuts. saved me a bit of money, but more importantly, time, i would have either had to mail order the hex bit, or drive over 2 hrs round trip to buy it. and for the amount of use i would get out of it, not worth it.