Anti-seize is an actual product you can get in any hardware store. Wd-40 will help get then on but won't last. Just makes it easier to remove if you have to take them off for maintenance or change pipes. only a couple dollars for anti-seize and good to have around.

 

Thanks.

 

Does anyone have the torque specs for the head/exhaust flange nuts, floor boards any other brackets? Thanks!

 

In the short term, you won't cause any serious problems if you caused leaks.

You will know right away......it will throw the tune off and your bike is gonna run like crap.

 

The gasket only goes in one way. It gets wedged in the hole flat against the port - it's not going to move once it's in there properly. The headpipe seats on the gasket and the flange (and nuts) hold the pipe in place. If the pipe is not in the proper position, it's nearly impossible to even get the flange on the studs. Once you do this you'll know what i mean.

Small exhaust leaks are actually pretty common. A leak is not going to hurt anything. Big leaks can affect performance, while small leaks are actually more of an annoyance. Most people make the mistake of trying to overtighten the exhaust flange nuts. There is very little torque on these nuts, and they need to be torqued in a proper sequence - hence that's why you need a manual. Too much torque and you'll flaten the gasket and create a leak.

 

I use Permatex anti-seize. It's a mineral oil/petroleum grease with aluminum and graphite. It's at all the auto parts stores, you can get it in a little tube, or an 8 oz jar with a brush. You'll probably never go through the little tube even if you change your exhaust every year. Use it on the threads of your O2 sensors (be careful to only get it on the threads and not on the sensor itself) and on all the slip-fit connections on your exhaust system. It's not so much for ease of assembly, as it is to help disassembly the next time you take your exhaust apart. Be sure to wash your hands good after you use it, or you'll be leaving graphite fingerprints all over your bike.

 

I kind of gave a quick description of the exhaust flange torque procedures earlier in the thread. On the front exhaust, you torque the upper flange nut to 15 inch lbs, then the lower flange nut to 100 to 120 inch lbs, then the upper flange nut to 100-120 inch lbs. On the rear cylinder, you start with the lower flange nut to 15 inch lbs, then the upper to 100-120 inch lbs, and then the lower nut to 100-120 inch lbs. The p clamps, floor boards, and rear muffler hangers I just tighten by feel, using a little blue loctite on the fasteners.

Hang the exhaust system all in place but not torqued down, start with the exhaust flange nuts and work your way towards the rear of the bike.

I always keep spare exhaust header gaskets in my toolbox. The standard gaskets are tapered, and for use with rounded header flanges. Some header flanges have a more squared-off profile, and those take the SE style gaskets that are flat on both sides.

 

Thank you!!!

I can't find a service manual without waiting 5-10 business days to order it! I'm going to the Chicago Motorcycle Show in about 2 hours, I'm gonna try to find one there.

 

Where you from in IL??

 

Palatine-ish