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HELP ASAP!! Removing Streetglide Handlebars!!

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  #11  
Old 02-08-2012 | 11:29 AM
Rznkane's Avatar
Rznkane
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The bolts on my were loose enough to turn with a thin pair of vise grips
 
  #12  
Old 02-08-2012 | 11:29 AM
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SmittyFXDL
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From: Texas
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Originally Posted by ICIBUY
Probably a dumb question but... in the video he takes the derby cover off to adjust the clutch cable? I changed out my clutch cable and didnt do that... is this only necessary if you're changing the cable length? Sure does look like a lot of work running the wires through the bars... if Yaffe could sell the bars with wires ran already he could probably mark them up another couple hunderd without a problem! LOL!
I removed the saddle bags and leaned bike over on left side engine guard. Then removed trans cover, removed cable, installed cable, and re mounted trans cover. stood bike back up and adjusted clutch at connector in middle of cable. All is good.

Once you run the wires through the bars once, you'll feel like you could do it over again no problem. I actually had to back my wires out after running them through. Second time running through was much much easier. Matter o fact, if anyone needs help wiring bars mail them to me and Ill run em through for you for cheap cheap.
 
  #13  
Old 02-08-2012 | 02:00 PM
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08 flhx
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From: texas
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I did it the hard way took the inner fairing off to get to everything. Mine came prewired, just plug in and replace the clutch cable. They came from Hill Country Customs. Also came with chrome controls
 
  #14  
Old 02-08-2012 | 02:08 PM
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ICIBUY
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From: Kewanee, IL.
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Originally Posted by 08 flhx
I did it the hard way took the inner fairing off to get to everything. Mine came prewired, just plug in and replace the clutch cable. They came from Hill Country Customs. Also came with chrome controls
Welcome to the forum... now lets see the pics of these bars from HCC's... and what size did you go with? (might start a new thread as not to hijack this one any further lol) Sorry OP.
 
  #15  
Old 02-08-2012 | 11:36 PM
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Glen1978
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From: Tyler, Texas
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No worries, all info is good info. Yeah I got the bars, everything was as described.

Had other things to do today but did get the factory "heat shrink" off, connectors off and get ready for new heat shrink. Gona go to town tomorrow and get a heat gun and a little more heat shrink. Also got the Klein pulling tool from Home Depot.....basically works on same principle of Chinese finger handcuffs. Gona attempt to pull wires tomorrow. Wish me luck.
 
  #16  
Old 02-09-2012 | 12:12 AM
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jackhis
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From: South FL
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In case anyone else need more info.
Here is a similar thread with pix.
 

Last edited by jackhis; 02-09-2012 at 12:24 AM.
  #17  
Old 01-23-2013 | 09:27 AM
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AndersonML29
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From: Smyrna TN
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This should help a lot I plan on tackling a 12 inch Yaffee install this weekend. Thanks gentlemen.
 
  #18  
Old 01-23-2013 | 10:11 AM
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davey019
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From: Sioux Center IA
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I know these are easier, but I ran my wires through the WO578's this weekend and just used a wire to pull them through with jelly. Not to bad once we learned to pull the electronic throttle connector out a ways because it kept hitting this. Take your time
 
  #19  
Old 01-23-2013 | 10:52 AM
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maryvillept
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From: SE Missouri
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Just remember to push before you pull and you'll be fine
 
  #20  
Old 01-23-2013 | 02:36 PM
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rg_dave
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From: Cypress, TX
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I pulled the radio to access the handlebar bolts inside. A set of long ball allen wrenches are your friend. You can use a long ball allen to loosen and tighten the two near the front and only remove the ignition switch cover. You may need to adjust your clutch pack (reason for pulling derby cover) but most of the time not.
 
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