Anyone using the HD stuff ? Pro's, con's, any input please.

 

51 views and no input ?

 

I used lowering blocks , 2nd hole on my 09 egc, worked fine, C and C seat is worth an inch, plus it is the best seat I have had, now I am using ohlin 2-2a shocks, and it runs the same height as it did with the lowering blocks.....So seat plus ohlins, equals 2 inches lower, with a great ride to boot...

 

I use the -1" street glide shock in town- stock shocks when touring for a floaty ride that works for 10 hour days in the saddle. change over takes minutes.

I leave the front stock I want the suspension travel, reduced travel is more likely to smack the fender into the bottom of the triple tree.

If you have V&H headers with the X pipe cover may hit (hard!) on right turns.

extremely lowered bikes you have to watch for the rear tire chewing up wiring inside the fender

some guys like the lowering blocks, and the cost on those is better, I went with the SG shocks for the quicker changeover back and forth.
My old 95 EG had lowering blocks when I bought it, I took them off the 2nd day.

mike

 

Here are a few places to check out online:
Road 6 Customs
http://www.road6customs.com/online-s...roduct=1136465

Bad Dad Baggers
http://www.baddad.com/products/featured

Or you could go with Progressive Brand Shocks all around.

I just bought the Road 6 customs lowering kit and will be putting it on soon. I'll come back and let you know how it goes.

Here's something else to consider. If you lower just the rear and not the front, you'll be affecting the rake of the bike and will notice that it does not seem as nimble during turns. When on the stand it will lean differently and will take a little more effort to stand up. I'm not saying its gonna feel like a million pounds, but you'll notice the difference.

If you lower both front and back, depending on how low you go, you'll have to look into getting a shorter stand. The reason being is that the bike will not lean over far enough and you'll run the risk of it tipping over if you're in a slanted parking lot.

Cheers.

 

I would stay away from lowering blocks. They usually tear up the shock boot and can cause some handling issues. The H-D Profile Low shocks are the best and safest bet. You can change the seat to any number of higher priced aftermarket seats or go the H-D Sundowner seat which lowers you about an inch. Like the one poster said, don't lower the front end or you will end up with a dented front fender since Ultras have a lot of weight and the front suspension will bottom out from time to time. With it lowered, the driving lights crossbar will hit the fender on bottoming.

If you want the rears lowered more than the Profile shocks, try this place: http://bitchinbaggers.com/products/drop-shocks/ They can shorten your shocks to about any length you want and do it properly and safely.

 

Their a a couple of threads on this mod. If you search the forum you will find a number of ways its been done. I lowered my 2010 Ultra Classic with Progressive Suspension parts. 940's on the rear, and Monotubes on the front. 1 inch lower all the way around, no dents in my front fenders. I will say the ride is firmer than stock, but it is lower. A riding buddy lowered his SG, using Fat Baggers Inc kit. Just depends on how you want to do it.

 

I have the HD Profile lower rears. Did not bother with the front end. I also have the Reach (not Super Reach) seat. Rides and responds great. Even does fine when I teach the MSF courses.

 

I'm going to drop my Ultra 1 1/2 inches and plan on going with Bitchin Baggers. About $240.00 with the heavy springs and you keep the air.

 

I have the HD front and rear profile lowering. They do lower it but they are junk if you ask me. The ride is terrible. I changed my fork oil to HD heavy and that helped the front a little, however I'm still not satisfied.
My advice would be to spend a little more and get something better that you'll be happy with.
I only have experience with the HD stuff thus far, so I personally do not know what is best. I only know what I have decided to try next based on hundreds of opinions I have read.
Best of luck to you with what ever you decide.
p.s. If you are looking to buy the HD stuff, I'll sell you mine in about a month when I purchase the Progressive monotubes for the front and Ohlin’s for the rear.