Time For New Battery Already?
#1
Time For New Battery Already?
In the past couple months my bike seems hard to start almost every time. It's a 2010 Limited about 16 months old with a little over 10k miles on it. It stays hooked up to a battery tender almost all the time.
When I start it, it begins to crank, then hesitates, and then turns over and starts. If it is ridden for over 30 minutes straight it starts in the same manner but if I start it and ride it, then shut it off for 5 minutes or so and try to restart, it barely even cranks. Under those circumstances there must be a huge drain on the battery because it moves the radio input back to aux, but not enough to kill the clock in the radio. The hesitation is such that it almost seems like the auto compression releases are not working?
I have yet to talk my local dealers into a compensator change so I can upgrade to the SE version even though I rarely hear any of the typical symptoms or banging associated with the compensator going out.
When riding at rpm above idle the voltmeter stays around the 15 to 16 volt mark and drops to 13 or so at idle.
Question is does this sound like a weak battery already or should I start looking at other areas. Even though it's still in warranty I hate going in to dealer and being at their mercy without being armed with proper info or knowledge to fight off their "it's normal" line.
Any advice?
When I start it, it begins to crank, then hesitates, and then turns over and starts. If it is ridden for over 30 minutes straight it starts in the same manner but if I start it and ride it, then shut it off for 5 minutes or so and try to restart, it barely even cranks. Under those circumstances there must be a huge drain on the battery because it moves the radio input back to aux, but not enough to kill the clock in the radio. The hesitation is such that it almost seems like the auto compression releases are not working?
I have yet to talk my local dealers into a compensator change so I can upgrade to the SE version even though I rarely hear any of the typical symptoms or banging associated with the compensator going out.
When riding at rpm above idle the voltmeter stays around the 15 to 16 volt mark and drops to 13 or so at idle.
Question is does this sound like a weak battery already or should I start looking at other areas. Even though it's still in warranty I hate going in to dealer and being at their mercy without being armed with proper info or knowledge to fight off their "it's normal" line.
Any advice?
#2
It does sound like a weak battery- but it could be a poor ground or some corrosion on the terminals. If you have a voltmeter take a reading right on the battery post when not running. The voltmeter shows its charging. Should be above 12.6volt dc, anything less than 12 volts it's going bad. Sometimes they don't last.
#3
You could also have a starter getting ready to take a dump. Check the starter connections while your checking the grounds. Careful tho, the starter stays hot and the ignition switches the ground off and on. In other words make sure the wrench doesn't touch ground unless the battery is disconnected.
#4
#5
Battery has a 24 month warranty... Full Replacement 1 time
Take the battery Tender OFF, let the battery rest for 2 - 5 days.
If it is dead, pull out , take it to the dealer.
If it cranks just barley, leave in bike, let stand No battery Tender, make appt. to dealer..
Take the bike in 1 ful day prior to appoitment, allowing the battery to be drained.
Have them Test: Stator Output , Regulator Out Put,
My Stator and Starter Clutch went bad at 18 months - warranty
IMOP: I'm not using a Battery Tender any more, I run a Battery Charger, that Shuts off
Take the battery Tender OFF, let the battery rest for 2 - 5 days.
If it is dead, pull out , take it to the dealer.
If it cranks just barley, leave in bike, let stand No battery Tender, make appt. to dealer..
Take the bike in 1 ful day prior to appoitment, allowing the battery to be drained.
Have them Test: Stator Output , Regulator Out Put,
My Stator and Starter Clutch went bad at 18 months - warranty
IMOP: I'm not using a Battery Tender any more, I run a Battery Charger, that Shuts off
In the past couple months my bike seems hard to start almost every time. It's a 2010 Limited about 16 months old with a little over 10k miles on it. It stays hooked up to a battery tender almost all the time.
When I start it, it begins to crank, then hesitates, and then turns over and starts. If it is ridden for over 30 minutes straight it starts in the same manner but if I start it and ride it, then shut it off for 5 minutes or so and try to restart, it barely even cranks. Under those circumstances there must be a huge drain on the battery because it moves the radio input back to aux, but not enough to kill the clock in the radio. The hesitation is such that it almost seems like the auto compression releases are not working?
I have yet to talk my local dealers into a compensator change so I can upgrade to the SE version even though I rarely hear any of the typical symptoms or banging associated with the compensator going out.
When riding at rpm above idle the voltmeter stays around the 15 to 16 volt mark and drops to 13 or so at idle.
Question is does this sound like a weak battery already or should I start looking at other areas. Even though it's still in warranty I hate going in to dealer and being at their mercy without being armed with proper info or knowledge to fight off their "it's normal" line.
Any advice?
When I start it, it begins to crank, then hesitates, and then turns over and starts. If it is ridden for over 30 minutes straight it starts in the same manner but if I start it and ride it, then shut it off for 5 minutes or so and try to restart, it barely even cranks. Under those circumstances there must be a huge drain on the battery because it moves the radio input back to aux, but not enough to kill the clock in the radio. The hesitation is such that it almost seems like the auto compression releases are not working?
I have yet to talk my local dealers into a compensator change so I can upgrade to the SE version even though I rarely hear any of the typical symptoms or banging associated with the compensator going out.
When riding at rpm above idle the voltmeter stays around the 15 to 16 volt mark and drops to 13 or so at idle.
Question is does this sound like a weak battery already or should I start looking at other areas. Even though it's still in warranty I hate going in to dealer and being at their mercy without being armed with proper info or knowledge to fight off their "it's normal" line.
Any advice?
Last edited by trackadaptor; 01-27-2012 at 03:57 PM.
#6
If your battery checks out (load test too) you could have carbon build up or fretting in your solenoid contacts. See your service manual. I think you can check it on the bike but it is pretty easy depending on your exhaust to remove the starter and service it on the bench. I put a kit in mine for under $25 and first thing I noticed was my radio does not re-start if it is on when I start the bike. This is a decent load tester for a good price with coupon http://www.harborfreight.com/100-amp...ter-90636.html
#7
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#8
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Mountain Top, Alabama
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+1 on the Load test, don't let the warranty run out on you!
Stuff like that bugs me, don't want to be left stranded.
Pull, load test - if OK, charge, dress up connections, suspect starter if continues...
When you buy, go big on CCA's, can find around $100.
Stuff like that bugs me, don't want to be left stranded.
Pull, load test - if OK, charge, dress up connections, suspect starter if continues...
When you buy, go big on CCA's, can find around $100.
Last edited by TheGrandPoohBah; 01-27-2012 at 06:03 PM.
#9
I Just Changed Mine
09 Road King here. I had similar symptoms on my King this past fall. As long as I was pulling it apart to install a Gerbings harness I change the battery also while apart. Bike starts like new again. No dragging, slow cranking or dimming headlight when starting any more.
Which leads to an obvious question - Why does Harley have the headlight turn on before the starter engages? I understand headlight on for safety but you would think a delay till after started would be easier on the electrical system!
Which leads to an obvious question - Why does Harley have the headlight turn on before the starter engages? I understand headlight on for safety but you would think a delay till after started would be easier on the electrical system!