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Normal? Toe shifter slop on shaft

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  #11  
Old 01-10-2012 | 02:32 PM
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ssmith579
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Buy a new toe shifter. I had mine loosen up over time. I would tighten it and it would work for awhile but eventually wore out to the point I could not tighten it enough. Actually had it fall off once going around a corner. Also had it come loose 150 miles into a 700 mile trip. They do wear out. You can tighten it up in the mean time but should replace it.
 
  #12  
Old 01-10-2012 | 03:09 PM
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I think your shaft is .500 splines are about .015 deep clearance for screw I'm guessing around .050 didn't check. If you use a .1875 pin that leaves .141 on the back side and .106 on the front side of hole (IMO that isn't enough material) and that's if you can drill it that close, which I doubt. And if you have a tapered reamer you could use a tapered pin or if you just drilled a straight hole you could use a spiraled roll pin which may flex anyway. .05+.106+.1875+.141+.015= .4995 And after you drill through it's going to burr up the shaft which should be c'sunk and deburred and also deburr the shifter. Ain't sayin it can't be done just sayin I wouldn't. Make sense?
 
  #13  
Old 01-10-2012 | 03:37 PM
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Originally Posted by cp1
I think your shaft is .500 splines are about .015 deep clearance for screw I'm guessing around .050 didn't check. If you use a .1875 pin that leaves .141 on the back side and .106 on the front side of hole (IMO that isn't enough material) and that's if you can drill it that close, which I doubt. And if you have a tapered reamer you could use a tapered pin or if you just drilled a straight hole you could use a spiraled roll pin which may flex anyway. .05+.106+.1875+.141+.015= .4995 And after you drill through it's going to burr up the shaft which should be c'sunk and deburred and also deburr the shifter. Ain't sayin it can't be done just sayin I wouldn't. Make sense?
Yes. I agree that it would be tough - but it could be done. And a .125 pin would leave a little more meat. Like I said earlier, I'm not recommending this but I do think it could be done and made to work.

Buying a new part(s) is probably the best fix though.
 
  #14  
Old 01-10-2012 | 03:57 PM
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Didn't answer the original question yes my toe shifter is tight. This might be a dumb suggestion but if your faced with buying a new shifter anyway you might try taking a hacksaw or band saw and cutting a slot opposite the existing slot in about a 1/4" deep' it might let it close down tighter against the splined shaft.
 
  #15  
Old 01-10-2012 | 04:02 PM
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Put some Loctite on the splines, re-tighten and let dry.
 
  #16  
Old 01-10-2012 | 06:01 PM
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As others have said, check the splines. If the shaft is the one that is worn down, consider replacing with one from Pingel, as it includes a grease fitting.
 
  #17  
Old 01-10-2012 | 06:21 PM
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Quick fix with no drills or pins: Remove the bolt and place the shifter in a vise so that you can close the slot as if the bolt were there. Close it down but not completely and re-cut the slot with a hacksaw or cut-off wheel in a die grinder.
What this essentially does is increase the width of the slot so it can be once again closed down tight on the splined shift shaft.
Like I said, this is a quick fix (takes about 5 min.) that will last until you can get a new lever.
 
  #18  
Old 01-10-2012 | 07:13 PM
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albngore
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How about if I use JB Weld on the splines? If this works it might hold forever. If not, then I have to get a new shaft and lever anyway. Since the toe shift lever is on the inside, I will still be able to get the heel shift lever off first.

I see no downside to trying. Any negatives to this?

Thanks
 
  #19  
Old 01-10-2012 | 07:18 PM
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Tightening with just an allen key missleads you to think that bolt is tight. Invest in a 3/8 socket drive with that size allen bit in the socket. Then crank that bitch down. Youll see that its tight then.
 
  #20  
Old 01-10-2012 | 07:22 PM
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Gliden,
That is just what I used, a 3/8" socket with an allen insert. Last thing I want to do is break off the stud.
 



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