DOT4.....what a PITA. Why oh why couldn't they have used DOT5? I beleive DOT 5 is non-corrosive. Of course, to switch over, you would have to compeltely drain, clean out, and redo the entire brake system....and I'm not doing that!
The little bit I dribbled on my paint....I took care of with a spray water bottle and paper towels to get it off QUICK.
I hate messing with brake fluid!
~Joe
A pain indeed! From what I've read about DOT 4 vs. DOT 5. The reason for DOT 4 is because the silicone based DOT 5 can foam up due to the cycling of the ABS. I'm sure someone will be along any minute now to set me straight. But that's what I read when trying to educate myself on the reasons. For what it's worth. I used to have a 96 Camaro SS that I completely changed over to DOT 5 and never had a bit of trouble from it or any spongy brake feel after aggressive braking. Probably just lucky though. DOT 5 seems to be superior in every other way.
Just did mine. Game is; don't get air into the ABS module. I attached brake line, with MC cap removed, I attached medium size syringe with clear tube attached (pre fill tube and tap any air out) to bleeder valve, do reverse bleed pushing air from upper brake line (then fluid) out thru MC. This method is very easy and controlled, no drips, no mess. AND NO TRIP TO DEALER NEEDED!
Just did mine. Game is; don't get air into the ABS module. I attached brake line, with MC cap removed, I attached medium size syringe with clear tube attached (pre fill tube and tap any air out) to bleeder valve, do reverse bleed pushing air from upper brake line (then fluid) out thru MC. This method is very easy and controlled, no drips, no mess. AND NO TRIP TO DEALER NEEDED!
doesn't the ECM or something need to be reset? or just pull the main fuse before starting the change over and bleeding? once done plug fuse back in and won't even know it was furked with?
doesn't the ECM or something need to be reset? or just pull the main fuse before starting the change over and bleeding? once done plug fuse back in and won't even know it was furked with?
is MC= master cylinder?
No reset needed if you keep air from entering ABS module, and remove all air from new line, and don't introduce any air thru the bleed valve. I did not pull fuse. The clear tube came from Lowes... 3/16 ID 5/16 OD, it will screw onto the nipple of syringe, you may need to heat the tube end you'll be attaching to the bleeder valve to fit over valve tightly. test fit this before you pre-fill the clear tube with Dot 4. You may need to refill your syringe a couple of times depending on its size, be sure to close the bleeder valve before removing syringe from the still full tube. Suck additional fluid into the syringe, reconnect to tube, tap out any air before slowly pressing plunger. You'll see very small (foamy) bubble escape into the MC (Master Cylinder) with the first fluid that makes it to the MC. After no more bubbles are seen coming out, I manipulated the brake line starting at ABS module.. creating a high roll in the line working it towards the MC to encourage any trapped air to move along. Use the syringe to remove excess Dot 4 from MC. I had two syringes... one to remove excess and/or have pre-loaded with dot 4 when I switched syringes. Whole process took less the an hour.
I used 4' of clear hose so I could watch MC while introducing dot 4 into bleeder.
I did a better job bleeding my front brake after the line replacement without the digital tech than the dealer did on the rear brake after the switch recall.
Just did mine. Game is; don't get air into the ABS module. I attached brake line, with MC cap removed, I attached medium size syringe with clear tube attached (pre fill tube and tap any air out) to bleeder valve, do reverse bleed pushing air from upper brake line (then fluid) out thru MC. This method is very easy and controlled, no drips, no mess. AND NO TRIP TO DEALER NEEDED!
and where does one get this medium syringe?, never got into that kinda stuff ...