04 Road Glide Rockord Fosgate and Polk Audio
#1
04 Road Glide Rockord Fosgate and Polk Audio
Ok Finally did it,
Gave up on the J+M 5 1/4's with tweeters in grilles, not enough bass.
So here we go, added:
Polk Audio DXI 6500 in stock location with Arc Audio rings, put the tweeters in below the guages like the Yaffe set up does.
Polk Audio DXI 690's in the fairing facing the forks ( 6X9")
Rockford Fosgate PBR300X4 set to run the 2 channel in puts to 4 channel out
Mounted everything inside the fairing so the saddlebags and tour pak are still free to use.
I am using the J+M grilles so when I paint the inner fairing I can paint the grilles to match.
I have put together a complete install photo album here on Photobucket for you to have a look at .
Sound is fantastic and hopefully amp heat in the summer will not be a problem.
Your feedback is welcome and I will answer any questions if I can.
Enjoy:
http://s1092.photobucket.com/albums/...reo%20Upgrade/
That being said I am using the speaker wires from the stock head unit into the RF amp, that turns it on when I turn on the radio, but when I turn off the radio the amp stays on and I get a pop when turning off the ignition. Turned the small dial on the amp from 4 to 6 volts and there is no change, any thoughts will be appreciated. Positive wire from battery to amp and ground to fairing mounting bolt (10" grd wire). Othere than that I am happy so far.http://s1092.photobucket.com/albums/...reo%20Upgrade
Gave up on the J+M 5 1/4's with tweeters in grilles, not enough bass.
So here we go, added:
Polk Audio DXI 6500 in stock location with Arc Audio rings, put the tweeters in below the guages like the Yaffe set up does.
Polk Audio DXI 690's in the fairing facing the forks ( 6X9")
Rockford Fosgate PBR300X4 set to run the 2 channel in puts to 4 channel out
Mounted everything inside the fairing so the saddlebags and tour pak are still free to use.
I am using the J+M grilles so when I paint the inner fairing I can paint the grilles to match.
I have put together a complete install photo album here on Photobucket for you to have a look at .
Sound is fantastic and hopefully amp heat in the summer will not be a problem.
Your feedback is welcome and I will answer any questions if I can.
Enjoy:
http://s1092.photobucket.com/albums/...reo%20Upgrade/
That being said I am using the speaker wires from the stock head unit into the RF amp, that turns it on when I turn on the radio, but when I turn off the radio the amp stays on and I get a pop when turning off the ignition. Turned the small dial on the amp from 4 to 6 volts and there is no change, any thoughts will be appreciated. Positive wire from battery to amp and ground to fairing mounting bolt (10" grd wire). Othere than that I am happy so far.http://s1092.photobucket.com/albums/...reo%20Upgrade
Last edited by 04Glider2; 01-05-2012 at 01:37 PM.
#2
Ok Finally did it,
Gave up on the J+M 5 1/4's with tweeters in grilles, not enough bass.
So here we go, added:
Polk Audio DXI 6500 in stock location with Arc Audio rings, put the tweeters in below the guages like the Yaffe set up does.
Polk Audio DXI 690's in the fairing facing the forks ( 6X9")
Rockford Fosgate PBR300X4 set to run the 2 channel in puts to 4 channel out
Mounted everything inside the fairing so the saddlebags and tour pak are still free to use.
I am using the J+M grilles so when I paint the inner fairing I can paint the grilles to match.
I have put together a complete install photo album here on Photobucket for you to have a look at .
Sound is fantastic and hopefully amp heat in the summer will not be a problem.
Your feedback is welcome and I will answer any questions if I can.
Enjoy:
http://s1092.photobucket.com/albums/...reo%20Upgrade/
That being said I am using the speaker wires from the stock head unit into the RF amp, that turns it on when I turn on the radio, but when I turn off the radio the amp stays on and I get a pop when turning off the ignition. Turned the small dial on the amp from 4 to 6 volts and there is no change, any thoughts will be appreciated. Positive wire from battery to amp and ground to fairing mounting bolt (10" grd wire). Othere than that I am happy so far.http://s1092.photobucket.com/albums/...reo%20Upgrade
Gave up on the J+M 5 1/4's with tweeters in grilles, not enough bass.
So here we go, added:
Polk Audio DXI 6500 in stock location with Arc Audio rings, put the tweeters in below the guages like the Yaffe set up does.
Polk Audio DXI 690's in the fairing facing the forks ( 6X9")
Rockford Fosgate PBR300X4 set to run the 2 channel in puts to 4 channel out
Mounted everything inside the fairing so the saddlebags and tour pak are still free to use.
I am using the J+M grilles so when I paint the inner fairing I can paint the grilles to match.
I have put together a complete install photo album here on Photobucket for you to have a look at .
Sound is fantastic and hopefully amp heat in the summer will not be a problem.
Your feedback is welcome and I will answer any questions if I can.
Enjoy:
http://s1092.photobucket.com/albums/...reo%20Upgrade/
That being said I am using the speaker wires from the stock head unit into the RF amp, that turns it on when I turn on the radio, but when I turn off the radio the amp stays on and I get a pop when turning off the ignition. Turned the small dial on the amp from 4 to 6 volts and there is no change, any thoughts will be appreciated. Positive wire from battery to amp and ground to fairing mounting bolt (10" grd wire). Othere than that I am happy so far.http://s1092.photobucket.com/albums/...reo%20Upgrade
Zach
#4
Fixed The Link
Sorry bout that,
I fixed the link in the original post and here it is again:
http://s1092.photobucket.com/albums/...reo%20Upgrade/
I fixed the link in the original post and here it is again:
http://s1092.photobucket.com/albums/...reo%20Upgrade/
#6
04glider2, props on an excellent audio project and pictures.
Suggestion: to make your project slightly better documented (to help others) describe how and what tool you used to drill the inner fairing for the tweeters, and the size of the replacement screws you used. It takes a bit more time to add the info, but readers will appreciate the added info.
Again, great project and excellent pictures.
Carl
Suggestion: to make your project slightly better documented (to help others) describe how and what tool you used to drill the inner fairing for the tweeters, and the size of the replacement screws you used. It takes a bit more time to add the info, but readers will appreciate the added info.
Again, great project and excellent pictures.
Carl
#7
Arc Audio Trimming Etc.
Yes they are the correct Arc Audio 5 1/4 to 6 1/2 speakers adaptor rings.
They come packages with two sided directions, one side for the batwing and the other for the RG.
The instructions say they will need to be trimmed to clear the glove box portion of the inner fairing on the RG models.
To replace the instrument nacell bolts on the side of the forks all I needed to do was to go to the local hardware store (Ace Hardware) and look in their selection of stainless steel bolts to find the button head replacements that are shown in the pictorial.
The tweeters called for a 2" hole, but rather than use a 2" hole saw I went with the smaller 1 3/4 one and used the dremel with the sanding drum to open it up for a nice fit.
The 6X9 holes were done with the inner fairing on the bike and I used several different cutters to get them trimmed to fit. Dremel cutting wheel, air die grinder and a vibrating type cutter for SMC body cars like the newer Corvettes are made of. Same tools were used to relieve the glove boxes to clear the magnets.
The large holes took quite a bit of time to get done to avoid a costly mistake.
Project seems to be worthwhile so far.
Speakers were on sale at a large retailer and I was able to buy a 4 year extended warranty. Not a fan of extended warranties but in this case the price was right and they may be subject to some weather and vibration abuse so might as well try it. The amp was a no brainer as the size is right and the price was beyond reasonalbe. Whole project under $600.
They come packages with two sided directions, one side for the batwing and the other for the RG.
The instructions say they will need to be trimmed to clear the glove box portion of the inner fairing on the RG models.
To replace the instrument nacell bolts on the side of the forks all I needed to do was to go to the local hardware store (Ace Hardware) and look in their selection of stainless steel bolts to find the button head replacements that are shown in the pictorial.
The tweeters called for a 2" hole, but rather than use a 2" hole saw I went with the smaller 1 3/4 one and used the dremel with the sanding drum to open it up for a nice fit.
The 6X9 holes were done with the inner fairing on the bike and I used several different cutters to get them trimmed to fit. Dremel cutting wheel, air die grinder and a vibrating type cutter for SMC body cars like the newer Corvettes are made of. Same tools were used to relieve the glove boxes to clear the magnets.
The large holes took quite a bit of time to get done to avoid a costly mistake.
Project seems to be worthwhile so far.
Speakers were on sale at a large retailer and I was able to buy a 4 year extended warranty. Not a fan of extended warranties but in this case the price was right and they may be subject to some weather and vibration abuse so might as well try it. The amp was a no brainer as the size is right and the price was beyond reasonalbe. Whole project under $600.
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