had the same problem with mine and after doing some research found out that the new 96" motor clutches are designed to slip to keep the motor up in the power band so don't worry bout it , dam I should have been a used car salesmen , that really sounded good , any way if your clutch has slipped that much probably glazed or burnt up by now , if you tear it down I would just put in all new disk while you are in there , put the screaming eagle in mine went to the formula + oil in the primary and no more problems

 

Get the factory workshop manual. About 60 bucks. Makes changing the clutch a piece of cake. Once you do the proper adjustments and it still slips, bite the bullet before it leaves you stranded somewhere.

 

can you post a link to your research on the clutch made to slip

 

the bike has about 15k on it, i doubt the clutch is shot.

i did the adjustment like i stated i wanted to, i got a polar ride tomorrow, so ill see how it does.

im planning on a SE spring for it here shortly..

 

I believe he's imitating what the dealer would try to convince you to believe. There's no truth to it. LOL

 

So whats the part number and ratings for the 2012 model bikes?

 

Man, you are so right! You should have been a used car salesman! You would have got the front parking space for that one! Dude bought that one hook, line, and sinker. I bet if he returned it to you, you would blame it on the gremlin bell hanging too low, or humid air in the tires...

 

You must be one those low speed "friction zone" guys.

 

negative, i ride in the powerband
i came off sportbikes im not one to let the bike lug around

previous owner.. who knows

 

no matter what the milage,if its been slipping it will likely have glazed the discs and continue slipping.