Ok just a qik update. I finally got out of STUPID and got my self a V&H fuelpak. Input the correct map codes and she is running hella sweet now. But one more question these SG's hella vibrate like crazy. Is that normal? Sorry came off a FLSTNI which was not rubber mounted. Dealer tells me its all normal but damn even my side mirrors rumble, not that I am complaining. Just want to make sure my ride is right!

 

they shake.

 

Kinda hard to associate hella vibrate like crazy, but while tuning I have noticed less vibration as I get closer to being "dialed in" to my target map. Again it's a balanced tune thing, front and rear cylinders tune optomized and equalized, will generate the least amount of vibration. Unfortunately not something you are going to accomplish with just a fuelpak. You may get some of the vibration tamed down with a little dyno time, but I wouldn't put too much into it without a more substantial tuning device. Roll with what you got for now, it's better than befor right?

 

Bike rides a lot better and NOT as lean. But what else can I do to fine tune this thing. I took it to a shop to dyno, but tech said if fuelpak is on that should do it. When I say hella I mean vibrates like crazy. At idle the headlight shakes, the bars, the front wheel. I guess they shake a lot after researching on the net. Let me know what else you recommend I do.

Thanks all.

 

I wasn't bustin your ***** about hella, its just hard period to associate one persons perception of " a lot of vibration". Even in its state of least vibration, someone else may feel that my bike vibration is excessive. Even under the best conditions, the motor is still going to vibrate. If the dyno guy dismissed you with "the fuelpak sould do it", I would look for a new dyno guy. These tuning devices don't tune, they give you the ability to tune, you must have O2 feedback in order to assess your current state of tune and figure out what changes to make in order to achieve the tune you want. Dynos have the means to capture O2 data or there are a couple companies that offer stand alone O2 datalogging systems. To fine tune takes a lot of time, and it is either not profitable for the dyno shop or the customer isn't willing to pay for a complete job. Dyno shops, operators, and techs say all kind of stuff in order to get the customer to accept "good enough". Judging by your tuning device choice I would assume you are in the "good enough" category, and there is nothing wrong with that. Unfortunately now you got a little taste of better, and now you want more better. I use a PC III and a DTT Twin Scan + WEGO, it is about the cheapest way to get all the elements you need for an accurate tune, and you don't have to pay for dyno time. Having played with this myself for several years now, I know how much time it takes to tune properly, and I have a better understanding of the whole process, for that reason I don't have much faith in a lot of the guys who claim to be "tuners". I tune strictly by O2 feedback, once I got that right, I dont care or need to know what the HP/TQ values are, they are what they are, and knowing what they are won't change them. I found a local shop that charges $500.00 for a dyno tune, so I asked what do I get for my $500.00; well we go online and download the correct Dynajet map for your bike and load it into the Power Commander, then we put it on the dyno and run it to show you a print out of what it makes. That's not a tune, that is simple wallet lightening. One thing you could try befor putting more money into a tune, is a front motor mount from Sta-Bo or Glide-Pro, they simply work at taming vibration.

 

WTF??? When I hold mine WFO for ten mins bouncing off the limiter I start to see a little white dot in the red glow. I just thought it was a seat warmer option like I have in Tahoe

that's it going back to the dealer

 

Just messing around Bro.

Can't speak for other years but my 12 SG has a Engine Idle Temperature Management System (EITMS) that cuts off the fuel at idle to the rear barrel when it reaches high temp. It work very well and just goes to show HD is aware of the seat warmer option.

 

WTF! You do realize this is an AIR cooled engine right? 5 mins idling then 1-2 mins at 2k rpms they would probably ALL start glowing!

 

Best advice: don't do that.

 

at idle, thats normal. its a rubber mounted engine. does it smooth out after you give it fuel (and actually ride the thing as opposed to sitting in the garage?)