I have almost 55k and 5½ years on my cooler and although it has some minor wear there it nothing of concern, but I do stay away from gravel roads like the plague.

 

The Jagg 10 row is pretty simple to protect. I cut the screen just slightly wider than the finned section. flex it outwards a little and it kind of locks in place on the top and bottom of the fin section, used a piece of stainless wire in the 4 corners and twist wired it through the heat exchanger fins. the screen flexes outward and is kinda springy so stuf will bounce off it. Its a little dirty and banged up but you can see how I Hooked it up in the pics.

 

Not much one can do when you live on over 6 miles of poorly maintained gravel road! At least I got the town to stop laying down calcium chloride every summer to keep the dust down. That crap permeated every nook and cranny on the bike and would almost immediately cause corrosion. Was washing the bike more than riding it.

 

Hey Jason, you about ready for a business manager haha!

 

Payment sent.

 

I may have missed something along the line, but I assume the intermediate connection (blade connectors) is there to allow those of us using external switches to connect easier, but if so why not make the first length of wire from the fans reach under the seat. As it is the blade connectors are exposed to the elements and if extended would be protected under the seat.

 

You could also attached the screen by running some wire-ties through the cooler connecting front and rear. IOW, run a wire-tie through the cooler with the stub end holding the screen in place. Then attach the stub end of another wire-tie to the rear and cut it. When I was experimenting with cooler fans I secured them this way. I would also probably attach a small washer on the front between the stub and screen.

 

So you don't have to remove the entire harness from the chassis conduit, under the tank, and unhook connections under the seat in order to remove the fans, for whatever reason; same reason the horn has disconnects. As far as the elements go, snoop around your entire chassis electrical system you'll find a bunch of connections that aren't protected from the elements. I used shrouded disconnects and you can apply dielectrical grease to make it virtually waterproof. Wiring is never going to fully accommodate all concievable configurations, but I do include an extra set of disconnects for those who want to get real creative with their wiring.

 

Update I was one of the first to istall these fans and I can't say enough about the cooling effect.It's 104 here in EL Paso,Tx and was out in it and the bike oil temp never got over 190 and rear CHT 220.When I got home checked the HD digital dip stick just for yucks and it read 230 with bike off so I checked it against my indash gauge and read the same.I'm really happy with Jason turning me on to his cooler thermostat and F.C.S and all the other suggesting he made as far as getting my 08 Ultra to run cooler.I'm confident no matter how hot it gets out my set up will keep my bike running cool.Thanks again Jason

 

Hey In2It - What were you doing when the Oil peaked at 190 since it obviously went higher later in the trip.?

Are you also saying that the oil when from something like 190 to 230 (at rest) when you finally shut down the engine? Did you happen to get a CHT when the oil was 230?

I ask because 230 is about where my oil ends up once I come off the freeways in Houston and get to the House. I have a HD Oil Cooler with Jason's cooler T-Stat as well. The Front CHT is usually about 245 by then but cooling down via the fans.

As a rule of thumb, I try to run the fans at least a couple of minutes (taking the gear off, unpacking the bike, etc.) before I turn it off.

Thanks, D