What about fabbing a bracket out of flat stock that connects to the center motor case bolt? The whole assembly would still vibrate with the motor but it should control what I would call second order vibration?

 

Interesting. I'll need to look at that. It is definitely secondary vibration given the length of the bolt that I had to use to clear the fans. That same length causes additional movement of the fans at idle, which I'm sure would not occur with the standard horn mount bolt.

 

When I mentioned additional motion I was thinking about the horns because of the extended axis, as they bounce around enough in their normal position, but if the horns shake more the fans would also. I'd like to hear your thoughts after some riding, as it wouldn't be hard at all to relocate my horns back to where they were, as the hose is still in place. I think the location behind the right saddlebag will work and I will be doing some DB tests soon to see how much difference there is in sound level. I think it would be minimal, however.

I was also thinking along the lines of what Rick mentioned, to support the horns from the bottom with a bracket going down to a lower part of the engine, like the bolt at the base of the jugs. That wouldn't be noticeable if painted black since the horns would likely block their presence. If you used rubber grommets on that bracket to isolate the horns from the vibration it could get into an involved jury rig, but it might work to keep the horn from shaking excessively.

 

Take a look at the Harley Parade fan on line. It appears to have just such a support.

 

That's another good idea. I'm going to noodle on this and see what I can. The danger is the unintended consequences. I love my horns, but don't want to do any damage to the fans...or make them ineffective. I appreciate all of the feeback.

 

Ran into a snag today. I want to hook my fan up to the aux switch on my RKC. I don't want to cut the deutsche connector off and solder, as I may in the future want to connect the Y connector from HD. So, I got the terminals, housing and pinlock and wanted to cut the pigtails off the fan wiring that normally hook up to the battery and crimp on so I can just plug into socket. I took the wires and my deutsche parts to my local HD and they said that the power wire on the fans is too thick (14 ga. I believe the said) to get a good, long-lasting crimp, as the terminals are meant for higher gauge wire (16 or 18). I was surprised by this. Appreciate any feedback. Is my dealer just being too conservative, or should I just hook up direct to battery and forget about it? Thanks.

TedMan

 

That's an easy fix... One additional splice and you can reduce the 14 gauge (?) to the needed 16-18 (?) gauge for the accesory connector.

 

Thanks. Spoke w/ Jason and he suggested merely trimming off a few strands, as the power wire in the fans is only 24 ga. That way, terminal should crimp right on and won't compromise power supply. Your way would work, as well.

TedMan

 

2Black is correct. Just use a butt connector to crimp the 14 ga to a 16 or 18 ga wire (preferably the same color for consistency). If you look carefully, you will find that is what is done to put the fuse holder on the power lead for the fans. That "splice" is hidden in the shrink warp or jacket so it is not noticeable.

18 ga is more than sufficient for the current drawn on the fans.

D

 

Well, got it all mounted and wired up. Local dealer crimped on my Acc connector for free, and I got the fan on and lined up no problems, but.....

Flip the fan switch on and Acc switch on with Ign. on and nothing. Checked my fuses, #2 does not looked burned. Disconnected the plug under the seat and put my multimeter on it and get no reading. I can't figure out how to test the switch directly, but other than that, I am stumped. If anyone has further suggestions, I'm all ears. Thanks.

TedMan