Built the best engine cooling system...again
#392
05-28-2012, 08:26 PM
I'm posting this before checking more into it, but hoping that I can get a answer. Is there a hook up under the seat that is already hooked up to the acc switch? I had just glanced under the seat yesterday when I had the seat off and all that I had seen was one free plug that was capped, but did not not look like any plugin that I have ever seen before. I am getting the fan tomorrow so I better figure out quick how to hook it up to the acc switch 
'11 Streetglide BTW.
'11 Streetglide BTW.O -- 12V, switched by ignition and ACC switch
O/R -- 12V, switched by ignition
BK -- Ground
R/Y -- Brake light
What I did in connecting heated clothes to the original ACC switch was to buy a Y-adapter (HD #70264-94a) and cut the wires from one of the two end connectors. Splice a blade connector on both the O and BK wires to fit the fan connectors and that will power your fans when the ignition and ACC switch are both on. This will allow you to splice the ACC circuit to your fans without hacking on the original factory wiring. To save money on the adapter you could just strip the insulation off the two factory wires near the connector and solder/heatshrink the fan wires to them.
I have a spare ACC switch on my dash panel that I used for my failed attempts at adding oil-cooler fans, and will use it for the engine fans. It is an add-on (jury rig) and not part of the factory wiring harness.
Last edited by iclick; 05-28-2012 at 08:42 PM.
#393
05-28-2012, 09:24 PM
That is exactly what I was looking for! Love this site! You even saved me the trouble of figuring out the wires, Thank you
I've never figured out what is supposed to connect to that odd connector, but it has four wires attached to it:
O -- 12V, switched by ignition and ACC switch
O/R -- 12V, switched by ignition
BK -- Ground
R/Y -- Brake light
What I did in connecting heated clothes to the original ACC switch was to buy a Y-adapter (HD #70264-94a) and cut the wires from one of the two end connectors. Splice a blade connector on both the O and BK wires to fit the fan connectors and that will power your fans when the ignition and ACC switch are both on. This will allow you to splice the ACC circuit to your fans without hacking on the original factory wiring. To save money on the adapter you could just strip the insulation off the two factory wires near the connector and solder/heatshrink the fan wires to them.
I have a spare ACC switch on my dash panel that I used for my failed attempts at adding oil-cooler fans, and will use it for the engine fans. It is an add-on (jury rig) and not part of the factory wiring harness.
O -- 12V, switched by ignition and ACC switch
O/R -- 12V, switched by ignition
BK -- Ground
R/Y -- Brake light
What I did in connecting heated clothes to the original ACC switch was to buy a Y-adapter (HD #70264-94a) and cut the wires from one of the two end connectors. Splice a blade connector on both the O and BK wires to fit the fan connectors and that will power your fans when the ignition and ACC switch are both on. This will allow you to splice the ACC circuit to your fans without hacking on the original factory wiring. To save money on the adapter you could just strip the insulation off the two factory wires near the connector and solder/heatshrink the fan wires to them.
I have a spare ACC switch on my dash panel that I used for my failed attempts at adding oil-cooler fans, and will use it for the engine fans. It is an add-on (jury rig) and not part of the factory wiring harness.
#394
05-28-2012, 11:08 PM
Banned
Hi Jason et al:
installed the fan today on my bike. I had to modify the screw and rubber bolster that connects to the fan. Specifically I had cut of the shaft and replace with a 3 inch 3/8 version. I hack-sawed the shaft and then using a drill press, reamed out a hole in the rubber bolster. I then used a 3 inch version and put a bolt on the end closest to the cylinder and used a few bolts and washers to create enough space between the horn, the fan and chrome dome horn cover.
Hopefully the pictures makes sense, if not let me know.
installed the fan today on my bike. I had to modify the screw and rubber bolster that connects to the fan. Specifically I had cut of the shaft and replace with a 3 inch 3/8 version. I hack-sawed the shaft and then using a drill press, reamed out a hole in the rubber bolster. I then used a 3 inch version and put a bolt on the end closest to the cylinder and used a few bolts and washers to create enough space between the horn, the fan and chrome dome horn cover.
Hopefully the pictures makes sense, if not let me know.
#395
05-28-2012, 11:13 PM
Banned
I can't PM you either, use the contact form on my website, in the meantime I put you on the list #102.
#396
05-29-2012, 06:24 AM
For my bike (11 flhrc) I ran the wires through a hole in the frame and then along the bottom of the frame under the gas tank...looks real clean...I used 6 black tie wraps about 6 inches long...the length of the wires was just about perfect and the fuse is under the seat, which works out good....
some of you guys would post up some pics or instructions on how you did it? A thought for others.....
Last edited by Rickr01; 06-04-2012 at 05:14 PM.
#397
05-29-2012, 07:35 AM
As I mentioned earlier, I'm going to wire mine using a second currently unused ACC switch I have on my dash panel, as the original is dedicated to heated clothes. It will be a simple process since everything is already in place, except I'll have to match the blade connectors to Jason's setup.
To Jason: You might want to consider a direct-wiring option using a small harness with blade connectors on one end to connect to the fan wiring and a match for the bike's ACC connector on the other. The HD Y-adapter I mentioned the other day would be an idea, as then the new fan owner could just plug-and-play while still having another ACC connector to use for something else.
Last edited by iclick; 05-29-2012 at 07:50 AM.
#398
05-29-2012, 07:39 AM
#399
05-29-2012, 08:11 AM
Tourer
#400
05-29-2012, 09:54 AM
Banned
I got you at #104. For the sportys I think all you need is the bridge bracket between the heads that hold the horn mount, then it should bolt right up, would have to verify fitment though.