Starter/compensator
#21
#22
Here's what I found. The crank extension, and the sprocket were beat up and burned. The starter, clutch hub and primary chain are ok, no signs of wear and tear. I didn't like what I saw in the compensator basket. I was looking to see a spring like my shovel and Evo, but all that is there is some kind of compression rings rattling around in there. Looking at pictures of the SE compensator, it is a completely different system, using compression wafers outside of a basket. Thanks for the help, ya'll.
Last edited by AlCherry; 11-27-2011 at 04:26 PM.
#23
Simple - one's a safety issue and the other a reliability issue. H-Ds legal exposure and legal obligation is massively different one versus the other.
Last edited by davessworks; 11-27-2011 at 04:46 PM.
#24
It should. I couldn't believe the difference my upgrade made. Like has been said a lot on various forums, it'll take care of the starter issue, the clunk of changing gears and give a lot smoother gear change. If you plan on doing it yourself I can PM you a link to a great guide that I followed from another forum. A lot of great tips.
#25
Here's what I found. The crank extension, and the sprocket were beat up and burned. The starter, clutch hub and primary chain are ok, no signs of wear and tear. I didn't like what I saw in the compensator basket. I was looking to see a spring like my shovel and Evo, but all that is there is some kind of compression rings rattling around in there. Looking at pictures of the SE compensator, it is a completely different system, using compression wafers outside of a basket. Thanks for the help, ya'll.
Last edited by Jackie Paper; 09-14-2018 at 11:24 AM.
#26
2nd that. It has a lock to keep the bolt from coming out. Gits rid of some of the noises and kickback.
#28
The first thing I did was pull the starter and solinoid. Everything is great. In my past experience (shovels&Evo's) the starter problems originated in the solinoid and the sorry assed starters they used.
The bike has 26,000 miles on it. It has not ever been wrung out. It's been "gran pa" driven. I have another bike that I hotrod. I'll look at it a little closer this weekend before I make a decision. I just don't like what I see in the compensator basket. I should be able to compress the cone springs, but they are flat, no compression.
The bike has 26,000 miles on it. It has not ever been wrung out. It's been "gran pa" driven. I have another bike that I hotrod. I'll look at it a little closer this weekend before I make a decision. I just don't like what I see in the compensator basket. I should be able to compress the cone springs, but they are flat, no compression.
#29
The best tip that I read was to use a drimmel and grind a little off of the inside of the inner primary where the rotor comes out, to keep from pulling the inner primary. There is enough slack in the chain to keep from pulling the clutch. I probably didn't take off more than a 64th of matarial to slide the old rotor out and the new one in.
Thanks for everyones help and opinions. Al
Last edited by AlCherry; 12-04-2011 at 09:54 AM.