No man it won't be a waste of money, it's not really like a broken mount, that's just the best easy description, its kinda weird how it works. the center metal sleeve is not moulded firmly into the urethane, it can be slipped in and out, but when installed the compression on the urethane grips the side walls of the center sleeve, it allows the motor to bounce on the front mount instead of holding firm and translating all that energy to the chassis. Check out the Sta-Bo, its only $59 and Kevin is a great guy.

http://www.sta-bo.com/id2.html bottom of the page

 

The engine is not moving because the rubber mounts are too tight. That's why you are getting vibration transmitted thru the frame. When you pushed the driveline forward before you tightened the bolt, you put all 3 rubber mounts under tension. The fact that your bike was smooth with a broken mount demonstrates that more allowable movement equals less transmitted vibration. Now you have the mounts stressed to the point of not allowing enough movement, and you feel more vibrations. Loosen the front bolt with it idling, and then retighten it. Don't spend any more money, fix what you have first. By the way, I had tried a urethane mount on the Kenny Boyce frame that I built, I hated it. Had a bunch more vibration than the stock harley mount. I still run a stock harley mount on that bike with an S&S 96 incher, as well as my Ultra.

 

I have a urethane motor mount on 06 SG with a S&S 111 -- I would suggest you don't go in this direction. The buzzing and vibration is incredible, he said it would get better with some miles on it but 3k miles later it has not--my indy talked me into this when I had a 131 on my bike -- I am going to loosen it while the bike is idling and then tighten it to see if that helps. If not I am going to inexpensive mount.

 

Which urethane mount did you try? Variation in torque on an an OEM style mount has no effect, the moulded in steel core directly contacts the motor mount, 10ft/lb or 30 ft/lb don't make a difference in the way it absorbs vibration, the rubber is just plain to hard. Watch Glide Pro's video on their front motor mount, that is exactly how they work in real life too. His mounts arent stressed, unless some one pryed forward on it while and held pressure while he tigtened all the bolts, he just cheated the slop in the system to his advantage. I do the same thing and it works like a champ to get the rear isolators' metal discs out of direct contact with the chassis.

 

Which urethane Mount? They are not all the same.

 

Bolt torque is not what I was talking about. Read my post. Then read his post. He pushed the bike backwards in gear and then tightened the front bolt. He put the 3 rubber mounts under tension. Rubber mounts must be allowed to move in order to isolate. When under tension, they transmit vibration instead of isolating it.

It was a Velva ride mount. Besides letting more vibrations thru, it did not work well with the steep shock angle of the KB frame that I was using.

Not trying to flame anyone here. Just trying to help the original poster by sharing some experience that took me some time to figure out.

 

I'm not saying its your problem or part of your problem, but since you replaced all your motor mounts, you need to also replace the exhauslt bushings under the saddle bags. They can also regulate some the vibration because the hold a lot of the egnine weight. The busings are cheap ($6 ?) only minutes to install. If it doesn't help the problem, at least you are starting will all new rubber.

Beary

 

I don't know and that is the problem; I have been ripped off by this indy (without my knowledge) before so I am sure it was the cheapest he could find and charge me a premium price for it. I don't use him anymore, I can thank him for being the insperation for me doing my own work.

 

Zallgood, most of us here are just trying to help. Didn't mean to come off as abrasive, just in a hurry this morn. I did ge a little off track witht he TQ, but the point is he didn't tighten everything down with the mounts forced in a strain, he shifted everything forward, then tightened down. I've heard mixed reviews on the Velva ride, but I don't believe it is of the same construct as the other mounts mentioned here, I realize you had issues with a KB frame, but I dont think the outcome will be the same with the OPs stock frame. I am curious, not being a smart ***, what is the significance of the shock angle relative to the front motor mount?

 

It looks to me like he did tighten the front mount bolt with the rear rubber mounts strained while he was pulling the bars back with it in gear. That was my point.

If you look at a bike from the side, when you hit a dip and the bike squats in the back, if the shocks are at a steep angle, (around 45 degrees on a KB frame) it wants to pull the driveline back. When that would happen, the mounts would tighten up and I would get a shudder of vibration thru the whole bike. And the primary would hit the swingarm mount. I tried the stock harley front mount, being one piece it did give more fore/aft support than the velva ride did, so it was a little better. Then I changed the shock angle to about 30 degrees to fix the problem. If you look at any rubber glide (except dynas, they are a different animal), the shocks are fairly straight for a reason. To be honest, I'm not that familiar with the newer urethane mounts. I just dont like seeing people throwing money at something instead of making work what they already have. I have seen dealers around here mess up a front mount replacement by poor installation. On that Glide pro vid you mentioned, he makes a point of being able to just drop the bolt thru the front mount. The whole point of that is so the mount have no fore/aft or right/left stress on them.