Bought a new bike! Wait...no I didn't. Now I got tha wobbles.
#1
Bought a new bike! Wait...no I didn't. Now I got tha wobbles.
So...replaced front and rear fork / shock fluid. BelRay 10W front and rear. New tires, new back brakes. Front forks weren't bad. Shocks needed fluid badly.
Took the bike out. Wow. All I could say was WOW. Wow and smile a lot. It felt like a whole new machine.
Then we got on the freeway. Took it easy...noticed parallel grooves didn't grab as bad as they used to.
Got up to 75, hit a groove changing lanes. Bars twitched a little like they always do and suddenly it felt like I was sitting on the back of a swimming fish.
The bike literally felt like it had turned to liquid underneath me.
This is the rear swingarm issue that everyone talks about, huh? I thought this bike didn't have it, but I guess the suspension slop was compensating and once that was eliminated the next weak spot was exposed?
Does that make sense? I didn't touch the swingarm connection. I spaced and forgot to do the check when I had the rear wheel off.
So...firmer forks/shocks = exposed issue elsewhere? Logical?
Took the bike out. Wow. All I could say was WOW. Wow and smile a lot. It felt like a whole new machine.
Then we got on the freeway. Took it easy...noticed parallel grooves didn't grab as bad as they used to.
Got up to 75, hit a groove changing lanes. Bars twitched a little like they always do and suddenly it felt like I was sitting on the back of a swimming fish.
The bike literally felt like it had turned to liquid underneath me.
This is the rear swingarm issue that everyone talks about, huh? I thought this bike didn't have it, but I guess the suspension slop was compensating and once that was eliminated the next weak spot was exposed?
Does that make sense? I didn't touch the swingarm connection. I spaced and forgot to do the check when I had the rear wheel off.
So...firmer forks/shocks = exposed issue elsewhere? Logical?
Last edited by JustDave71; 11-16-2011 at 03:26 PM.
#4
#5
Wobble was bad enough to tuck my jewels back up inside me a bit, but not bad enough to cause a wreck. It dissipated instead of increasing like I've read about. I just let off the throttle real smooth like and signaled a few lane changes over to the "slow" lane. I've since found it will kinda happen anywhere from 60ish up, but 70-75 is where it seems to want to actually oscillate.
Tires are brand spankin new and I checked pressure literally minutes after putting the wheels back on with the new tires.
I think you're correct. My bike's a 2000. I was goofin about the new bike thing. Just felt like a new ride with the new suspension fluids.
I...really don't think that's it, but if you want to elaborate I'm listenin!
#6
Sounds a bit more serious than the wobble we all talk about. I love your swimming fish description!
The solution to the normal wobble is a stabilizer kit and I am a great fan of True-Track kits, had them on two bikes. But it is best to make sure your bike is in tip-top condition. Things like steering head bearings can affect handling, the condition of front and rear rubber engine mounts, alignment of the engine/trans in the frame.
The wobble originates in the rear rubber mounts. The swingarm (and rear wheel) is mounted off the rear of the trans casing, so if there is 'give' in those mounts the rear wheel goes out of alignment momentarily and if it goes from side to side it can give that feeling of instability.
The solution to the normal wobble is a stabilizer kit and I am a great fan of True-Track kits, had them on two bikes. But it is best to make sure your bike is in tip-top condition. Things like steering head bearings can affect handling, the condition of front and rear rubber engine mounts, alignment of the engine/trans in the frame.
The wobble originates in the rear rubber mounts. The swingarm (and rear wheel) is mounted off the rear of the trans casing, so if there is 'give' in those mounts the rear wheel goes out of alignment momentarily and if it goes from side to side it can give that feeling of instability.
#7
The solution to the normal wobble is a stabilizer kit and I am a great fan of True-Track kits, had them on two bikes.
But it is best to make sure your bike is in tip-top condition. Things like steering head bearings can affect handling, the condition of front and rear rubber engine mounts, alignment of the engine/trans in the frame.
The wobble originates in the rear rubber mounts.
If true, it's almost a no-brainer. No maint records unfortunately and I'm third owner.
If I had the cash I'd probably go with CCE retrofit and Glide-Pro to bolster things (if I understand, those aren't redundant) but...cliche cliche...money is tight, SO...I'm maybe gonna check out the Rivera-Primo "Stiffey" and see what comes about.
Bike's rideable for now, and interestingly enough feels impressively solid in turns and at any speed below 60+
rails harder than I'd expect and actually has a little snap coming out of turns! Almost there, I guess.
Trending Topics
#8
You made a lot of changes at one time , it may be difficult to track down. Trying a known good tire is a great idea, but I would double check the mounting and fastners on the front end and brakes befor swaping out the new tire. What tires did you use? at stock pressure recommendation, my E3s will squigulate a little, bumped up to 40/42 and they track like a rail.
#9
I have studied many patents on bike rubber mounting of engines, including Erik Buells. He invented the priginal system, which is what we can see every day on those Buells and Sportsters. If it is good enough for them, it is good enough for us dresser owners too! As an engineer I understand the excellent principles that Buell was using when he came up with this system, of three 'straps'.
Last edited by grbrown; 11-17-2011 at 07:30 AM.