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Bought a new bike! Wait...no I didn't. Now I got tha wobbles.

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  #11  
Old 11-17-2011, 07:13 AM
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Originally Posted by fabrik8r
You made a lot of changes at one time ,
true, but...none of them seem to be dramatic enough to cause this...

it may be difficult to track down.
again, true...still very much leanin toward the swingarm pivot "doughnuts" or even internals but hopefully not.


Trying a known good tire is a great idea,
Don't have the tools to mount tires myself yet, so they're done at a local indy at $20 a pop. Can't afford to go back and forth like that gotta eliminate other stuff first. I trust the mount and balance job. They're solid at that place.

but I would double check the mounting and fastners on the front end and brakes befor swaping out the new tire.
Just got done pulling everything back apart and reinstalling very carefully according to manual and axle install instructions (flush mount axle)

What tires did you use?
a brand that I'd hear opinions about if I mentioned it. no need to sidetrack anyone heh.

at stock pressure recommendation, my E3s will squigulate a little, bumped up to 40/42 and they track like a rail.
Gotta say I am jealous that I didn't make up that word, but I'll try pressure variations. Danke.

Originally Posted by grbrown
No! If you are prepared to get down on your knees and take a look at the rear of the trans on a rubber-mount Sportster you will see a stabilizer, the same as those at the front and top of the engine, providing triangulated support to the motor and the rubber mounts. All Buells have one there as well, so adding a carefully chosen rear stabilizer is putting on something the MoCo sees as essential on those bikes.

I have studies many patents on bike rubber mounting of engines, including Erik Buells. He invented the priginal system, which is what we can see every day on those Buells and Sportsters. If it is good enough for them, it is good enough for us dresser owners too! As an engineer I understand the excellent principles that Buell was using when he came up with this system, of three 'straps'.
There's no rear stabilizer at all on the touring bikes? With your research did you determine that a "strap" (sorry, just gets the point across) upgrade is a better route to take than the spherical bearing retrofit and / or something like a stiffey or sta-bo bushings?

Originally Posted by traveler
10W in forks sounds awful thin.
Does it? Thought 10W was heavier than stock, but...truth is I actually put 20W in there! Typo. Sorry. I'm 225 pounds...20W might be on the stiff side, but I like bikes with a little more feel than cush.
 
  #12  
Old 11-17-2011, 07:23 AM
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20w fork oil is way too much. If you've taken that much compliance out of the front end, that's probably part of your problem.
 
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Old 11-17-2011, 07:54 AM
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10W is way too little, 20W is way too much?

I'll keep that in mind...still gonna focus on the swingarm region but keep all this stuff on the table.
 
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Old 11-17-2011, 08:41 AM
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http://harleytechtalk.org/htt/index....c,42053.0.html

A little food for thought?
 

Last edited by FLHP1034ME; 11-17-2011 at 08:43 AM.
  #15  
Old 11-17-2011, 09:05 AM
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I've actually heard of big issues being attributed to the oil level not being exactly the same in both tubes.

~Joe
 
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Old 11-17-2011, 10:17 AM
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If you were not in a high speed sweeper when the wobble started id check the "fall Away" first. By firming up the suspension you make the steering a little tighter and if your "Fall Away" is not correct youll get a wobble. If its OK check the tire and balance. I dont think its related to the "frame flex" that our rubber mounted bikes have since yoiu are in a straight away and not stressing the flex in the frame
 
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Old 11-17-2011, 10:40 AM
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https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...ew-friend.html
I found this to be my problem right after new mounted tires from an indy.

Also, I agree with XARAN. It's not very likely that its your swing arm bushings, not impossible just unlikely. That kind of wobble usually happens in high speed sweeping turns at 70mph+ putting lateral pressures on those bushings from flexing in the older frames, tracking etc...

The fork oil must be an exact measurement as stated earlier.

But my focus would be on the wheels! If it's not improper psi, than I bet it's a bad tire (happens) or balance is off. Good luck!
 

Last edited by JIMSFBL; 11-17-2011 at 10:48 AM.
  #18  
Old 11-17-2011, 12:40 PM
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Originally Posted by FLHP1034ME
Interestingly enough, one record from PO I do have is a front fork rebuild including replacing all seals and funny enough the parts mentioned in your link! Good call tho! I'll still keep that in mind, too! Could be faulty.

Originally Posted by traveler
I've actually heard of big issues being attributed to the oil level not being exactly the same in both tubes.

~Joe
It's the same. I was very, very careful when I drained them then refilled them. Same with rear shocks. I'm pretty "****" about stuff...

Originally Posted by XARAN
If you were not in a high speed sweeper when the wobble started id check the "fall Away" first. By firming up the suspension you make the steering a little tighter and if your "Fall Away" is not correct youll get a wobble. If its OK check the tire and balance. I dont think its related to the "frame flex" that our rubber mounted bikes have since yoiu are in a straight away and not stressing the flex in the frame
Neck bearing tension is exactly where it was before the work I did. Checked and double checked. Just a hair on the firm side which is how I prefer. Not tight just at the firm end of acceptable.

What would cause a wobble more too tight or too loose?

I should clarify that the wobble only happened when goin over a road feature made my bars twitch, and then I could repeat it by twitchin 'em myself.

I didn't realize that the dreaded bagger wobble was "frame flex."

And JIM I will check and re-check tire pressure and will take the bike to the indy that mounted the tires and have them check their work.

Thing is...the..."epicenter"...for lack of a better term isn't in the bars! When I force the behavior to show, the bars aren't really a concern. No tank slappin risk, that sort of thing. It literally feels like the center of the bike ends up jointed or rubberized.

Pretty weird!

Thanks guys! Appreciate all the responses!
 
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Old 11-17-2011, 12:48 PM
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I just replaced the rear swing arm bushings, and it made a giant difference, they were never changed, and they were worn out.
As for rear shock oil, I used 7wt, in the rears.
 
  #20  
Old 11-17-2011, 01:02 PM
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Originally Posted by JustDave71
So...replaced front and rear fork / shock fluid. BelRay 10W front and rear. New tires, new back brakes. Front forks weren't bad. Shocks needed fluid badly.

Took the bike out. Wow. All I could say was WOW. Wow and smile a lot. It felt like a whole new machine.

Then we got on the freeway. Took it easy...noticed parallel grooves didn't grab as bad as they used to.

Got up to 75, hit a groove changing lanes. Bars twitched a little like they always do and suddenly it felt like I was sitting on the back of a swimming fish.

The bike literally felt like it had turned to liquid underneath me.

This is the rear swingarm issue that everyone talks about, huh? I thought this bike didn't have it, but I guess the suspension slop was compensating and once that was eliminated the next weak spot was exposed?

Does that make sense? I didn't touch the swingarm connection. I spaced and forgot to do the check when I had the rear wheel off.

So...firmer forks/shocks = exposed issue elsewhere? Logical?
I have had the infamous 'biker wobble', and it was not as pronounced as what you describe. You can feel it, but it is not a constant shimmy. Can't speak to your hypothesis, but it's possible I suppose.

Wouldn't think it would have that extreme of an effect though. I eliminated my wobble by installing the touring link from Progressive Suspension, but again, yours sounds (to me anyway) like there's something else going on.
 


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