Yeah I got that. And there are canned tunes that don't do a lot either (Stage 1 from what I hear).

 

I would suspect that it is a TBW bike. That sheet is not really a pull to show power but a run that is done while calibrating the ve tables at wot. If you don't have a tuning device that actually works when you adjust the throttle blade control you will not usually get the throttle blade to 100% until 3000, maybe 2750 rpm. If you use the TTS you can actually get 100% by 2500. Here's a pic showing that.

 

Jeeesh! Just when I think I understand the discussion and the topic, along comes someone stating otherwise.....dont think I will ever get it....lets see, something like
SUCK! BANG! BLOW! or something like that......

 

What Lonewolf is saying is that throttle by wire bikes (2008 and newer touring bikes) don't open up to 100% throttle position instantly like the cabled bikes do. So alot of tuners crack the throttle open at 1500 to 2000 RPM's but don't start recording the run untill around 3000 RPM's when the throttle body is at 100%. If you have a TTS mastertuner or a SE super tuner their is a throttle progresstivity adjustment where you can change it to open up 100% instantly like a cabled bike. Without that adjustment the throttle body "ramps" open. It might take 1000 RPM's or so after you crack it wide open for the TB to actually go wide open. I hoipe this makes sence.

 

LOL! No, I was just commenting on my general lack of understanding of the combustion engine......I probably know just enough to get myself in trouble, maybe not even that much!

 

Thanks HarleyTuner, I've learned alot from this thread!

 

You bet bud!! If we only reach one person...lol

 

I understand the dyno plots you are talking about in this thread, but what's the real world mod needed for a MY2010 Electra Glide to get a 10 HP increase at 5,000 RPM without getting noisy nor taking a risk with the crankshaft bearing?
I have enough torque in the low revs, plenty to cruise at 85MPH (130KM/H) but missing the last bit to stay in the pack with metric bikes. I owned an "open" Yamaha FJ for 17 years and I'm not looking for that much power any more.

 

Stage two With a zippers filter on a SE backing plate. Some Rinehart TDs and whatever cam HarleyTuner suggests. Oh I almost forgot. A SERT to raise the rev limiter and tune that hot rod.

 

We have large intake ports so I thought a turbulence generator could help:
http://www.fuelsaving.info/turbulence.htm

Nowadays nobody mentions this type of equipment that made a world of difference when Angel Nieto introduced it in the 70's.

My standard a/c backplate has the rounded intake "lip" truncated compared to yours, so it's well adapted to operate up to 6,000 RPM. To remain legal, we are only offered V&H Monster Ovals; in this case I would have a bit less torque in the low end but able to burn more fuel in the higher revs due to the two identical pipes that provide less back pressure than the original ones. Cruising at low speed with the new exhaust changeover valve is quite pleasant for older people