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Rear hoop on older baggers-REMOVABLE?

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  #21  
Old 11-10-2011, 08:31 PM
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I cut mine off with a Hacksaw over the summer. I read all the posts on where some people have and other are scared to. I have rode several thousand miles and never noticed any problems. I used the one from Softbrake. It cost like 40 bucks and moved my tag under my brake light cleaning up the back end. I bought a couple of license plate led light off Ebay to light up the tag at night.
It sounds like this is a very common upgrade and not too many people have experienced any problems.

https://www.softbrake.com/shop/produ...dgroup=License
 

Last edited by sportyguy69; 11-10-2011 at 08:35 PM.
  #22  
Old 11-10-2011, 08:43 PM
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I cut mine off with hacksaw, set back slightly from the chrome strut covers, then epoxied 2 chrome caps from Lowe's on the ends. Looks great, took about 30 minutes start to finish, with a total cost of about $6. (I did buy a used license hoop to keep with my detached Tourpak when it goes back on.)
 
  #23  
Old 11-10-2011, 08:43 PM
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Mine has been off for 8+ years & 85K miles, ridden hard up to 120+, no problems, no flexing, no fatigue. I replaced with AutoGems & a Hotop lower plate mount. Those rear frame horns are very stout.
 
  #24  
Old 11-10-2011, 08:46 PM
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Originally Posted by IAMSWUTIAMS
I'll be putting Autogem shotgun lights in place of my hoop.
Same here. Looks and rides GREAT!! It's been like it is now for over three years with no problems whatsoever. I say go for it.

 

Last edited by hawg08; 11-10-2011 at 08:52 PM.
  #25  
Old 11-10-2011, 11:09 PM
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Originally Posted by sportyguy69
I cut mine off with a Hacksaw over the summer. I read all the posts on where some people have and other are scared to. I have rode several thousand miles and never noticed any problems. I used the one from Softbrake. It cost like 40 bucks and moved my tag under my brake light cleaning up the back end. I bought a couple of license plate led light off Ebay to light up the tag at night.
It sounds like this is a very common upgrade and not too many people have experienced any problems.
well, even if it is "one" out of 100,000 that have had a problem, I would not want to be that "one".
 
  #26  
Old 11-11-2011, 12:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Ultra89Rider
If you look at your photo, the only thing, besides the rear cross brace (It is not called a "license plate bar") that keeps the rear of the frame separated is the small flat plate to bolt the front of the fender and rear of the battery tray.
Yeah, the two braces that are welded into place in front and behind the battery, and the steel fender that's bolted into place between the two fender struts.

Jeesus, buddy, typing in bigger font doesn't make you any more right. Nice condescending attitude, too.
Your're right, the license plate bar is called a " tube support, bottom" ( 53422-97). It's not a rear cross brace.

The shock mounts are attached inboard of the fender struts, pretty much right at the tringulated part of the frame under the battery box. The cross braces behind the battery (what you describe as a "small flat plate") is welded to the frame, and is much more robust than the little round bar that's screwed to the end of the fender struts. The frame is also braced in front of the battery box. The fender is also bolted into place between the two fender struts, and that fender is a lot more rigid than the little chrome bar that holds the license plate.
 

Last edited by Mike; 11-11-2011 at 12:26 AM.
  #27  
Old 11-11-2011, 12:18 AM
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You'll also notice the newer touring frames (09 and newer) don't have that rear bar attached to the fender struts, nor did the FXRS, which had a very similar frame to the older touring frame


 

Last edited by Mike; 11-11-2011 at 12:22 AM.
  #28  
Old 11-11-2011, 07:12 AM
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boogaloodude makes a good point, seems many overlook that big chunk of steel called a fender that also stabilizes the rear.

I agree, that bolt in chromed tube steel is not fundamental to the design of the rear. It may add a little strength, but minimal at best.
 
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