Have been dealing with the wobble on decel from 40-30 since new. I checked fall away spec myself and it was within spec. So Friday while dropping it off to dealer for the recall I told them about the issue. They called and told me it was way loose, hmmm I'm betting they tightened the neck more than the spec...

 

Maybe you didn't get the cables out of the equation?

 

Cables were off.

 

Just curious.... what do you consider spec? You need to have the bike absolutely level and remove the clutch cable, and free the main harness from the steering head . From the PDF below......

4. If the clutch cable or main harness appears to be influencing swing momentum, proceed as follows and repeat
the previous step:
a. Clutch cable: Disconnect clutch cable from hand
lever. Release cable from P-clamp, remove from
inner fairing, or release from cable clip on instrument nacelle depending on model. See 2.25
CLUTCH CABLE.
b. Main harness: Remove the rivet and P-clamp to
release main harness from steering head. Secure
P-clamp with a new rivet when procedure is complete.


3 swings is minimum..... I would go with that.

The all knowing service bulletin http://www.glide-pro.com/wp-content/...djustment1.pdf

Other things to check.... tire pressure ..... front and rear. Get a good calibrated digital gauge. The pencil kind are pointless.

 

Good that the dealership found the problem. Let's us know how the B/L switch replacement goes.

 

Has anyone heard of a revised neck adjustment spec? For example, I read that the RG specs have changed from 2 to 1. In other words, pull the handlebar to the left, let go and it should settle somewhere to the center without reversing direction. I'm looking for the service bulletin number associated with this change. The service bulletin may cover all touring models but I'm also interested in the 2009 Ultra specs.

 

See my post above

 

My '11 Ultra neck bearings were tightened down to the new Road Glide spec. Made absolutely no difference, still wobbles and drives me crazy.

 

It has been my experience that the adjustment per the manual may not always be enough, I have always had to go a little tighter to get right. If you have a mechanics feel for a smooth adjustment without binding it is good to go, just like they did when you took it back in. For liability reasons they probably will never tell you that, but I know in the real world of repairing things a lot of times you have to go beyond what the book will state.

 

everytime i got the 30mph wobble it always goes away with a new front tire?u can balance a brick doesn't mean its round.