SE255 and pushrods
#1
#2
You can use the stock pushrods if you want to lift the tank, pull the rocker boxes, loosen the rockers and pull the OEM rods from the top.
If you use adjustables you can cut the OEM pushrods out with bolt cutters (only) and slip them in between the lifter covers and up into the rockers arms.
If you go with adjustable make sure you get a set that will slip in place without removing the lifter covers (although this in itself is not a big deal), but be wary of the HD tapered adjustables as there have been some issues with the locknuts either breaking or backing off. Many have used these with success but there have been issues...
HD may have addressed this problem but if I used them again I would change the locknuts out for Grade 8 nuts and ditch the OEM nuts.
There are lots of choices of P'rods out there so if you go this route research carefully.
If you use adjustables you can cut the OEM pushrods out with bolt cutters (only) and slip them in between the lifter covers and up into the rockers arms.
If you go with adjustable make sure you get a set that will slip in place without removing the lifter covers (although this in itself is not a big deal), but be wary of the HD tapered adjustables as there have been some issues with the locknuts either breaking or backing off. Many have used these with success but there have been issues...
HD may have addressed this problem but if I used them again I would change the locknuts out for Grade 8 nuts and ditch the OEM nuts.
There are lots of choices of P'rods out there so if you go this route research carefully.
#3
#4
As stated above, the SE 255 work great with the stock pushrods. The cam has the same base circle as the stock cam. I have done both. The first cam change I had was on dyna by the dealer and he left one of the pushrods loose. It was hammering like you know what by the time I got home, 10 miles. The second time I did my own on my 2010 Street Glide using the SE 255 cams and used the original pushrods. I feel safer with these. Agreed, it takes longer and you have to have the cam chest gasket set, but it has everything in it for a cam change.
#7
Trending Topics
#8
I used the stock pushrods on both of my bikes. The bagger has SE 255 cams, the dyna has the SE 266 cams (has a 120r engine in it). One of the things I like about the stock pushrods is that they will not go out of adjustment.
Some applications require adjustable pushrods, probably due to different base circle dimension on the cam?
Some applications require adjustable pushrods, probably due to different base circle dimension on the cam?
#9
As others have noted with the stock pushrods you have NO ADJUSTMENT. This is fine if you don't plan to ride a lot or keep your bike for many miles. With mileage the cam lobes will wear and having a little bit of adjustment capability will allow you to quiet the valve train noise in a high mileage bike. The adjustables work fine with the proper torque on the jam nuts and loctite.
#10
thank you for all replies.
I like the fact that the stock pushrods do NOT go out of adjustment as mentioned.
I took a look at my bike's engine and it doesn't have much room between the rear cylinder head and the frame. For those who re-use the stock pushrods, didn't you have problem taking off the rocker cover bolts??
I just don't want to see any surprises after I actually started the swap....
Thanks.
I like the fact that the stock pushrods do NOT go out of adjustment as mentioned.
I took a look at my bike's engine and it doesn't have much room between the rear cylinder head and the frame. For those who re-use the stock pushrods, didn't you have problem taking off the rocker cover bolts??
I just don't want to see any surprises after I actually started the swap....
Thanks.