So my passing lamp/turn signal got bent (no I didn't drop it) and now I got all the new parts I need from Zanotti, a new bracket, lamp and trim. I removed the bracket with lights and all from the bike. Question is, how do I get the passing lamps and turn signals off? I pretty much gutted both lights, separated the signal halves. Still I don't see how these two light fixtures are attached to each other, yet they can swivel to some degree...

Are there any instructions avail on line, or anyone that can tell me how?

 

Look here for a schematic: http://www.bikebandit.com/2008-harle...8637#sch624944
Essentially, once the turn signal is removed from the dog bone, there is a nut up inside it if I remember right. The bolt is hollow to allow the passage of the signal lamp wire(s).

 

I found a nut that looks like it holds the top half of the turn signal to the passing lamp. But its up inside the turn signal housing and a single wire runs through the middle of it into the passing lamp housing.

Gonna tell me I have to cut the wire in the passing lamp housing and pull it thru to remove the nut that is inside the turn signal housing to separate the two? And then have to splice the wire back together in the passing lamp housing after I put it on the new bracket?

 

Hey thanks for the link. Yes you remember right, so it looks like I DO have to cut and splice that signal lamp wire that runs up into the passing lamp housing.

How do they put this stuff together at the factory...Sheesh.

 

No need to cut the wires, they make a special socket, (no surprise) for that, it has a slot cut out of the side for the wires. You could make one, or try to borrow one.

 

Rather than cutting the passing lamp wire (the one that passes through the threaded stud that's secured by a nut), you can use a slotted 9/16" slotted socket. You can buy the socket, or (as most due) take a cheap 9/16" socket and grind a slot approx. 1/4" wide and an inch or so long. The slot will accommodate the wire provided you only turn the socket 270 degrees or so, remove the socket and reinstall it, and repeat until the nut is off the threaded stud--if you just keep ratcheting the nut with the socket, the wire will wind around the socket until the wire tears.

Carl

 

Ok, I understand the slotting socket idea, (A special socket, go figure) but once I get the nut off, I still have to separate the two and remove from the dog bone. There is no slot in the dog bone (for the wire) to remove the signal and the passing lamp.

Ok ok, no comments from the peanut gallery (I know what my sig quote reads...Lmao) but is this easier than I am making it sound?

 

If you had the HD Touring model service manual, you could look at the appendix at the rear to learn how to remove the Amp Multilock connectors; once removed, the wires can be pulled through and removed, then reinserted in the new parts.

W/O the service manual, you may find the information you need at the Tyco Amp website.

Good luck.

Carl

 

No manual, but I will look into the website. I did take a quick peak at the connector before I had to leave for work, maybe the website will help out thanks.

 

The slotted socket is a great idea for when you just have to adjust the passing lamps. I found no other way to separate the lights from the dog bone without cutting the single wire leading into the passing lamp housing. No big deal as I spliced it using a posi twist connector.

Now, the ? is....what reference point do we use to adjust the passing lamp aim point, close to factory aiming , so that they are not blinding on coming cages or cages in front of us more then they already do?