I am going to do the cat removal on my 2011 ultra limited and was trying to find link to headpipe removal. I don't have a service manual for step by step directions. sure would make the job easier knowing where and what to remove first and in order.

 

Then if I were you, I would get a service manual.

 

+1 on the manual. Like having the proper tools, having a service manual is essential to do the job correct and avoid many problems.

The removal is simple. You may want to lay a moving blanket under the bike to lay chromed parts on.

Start at the back end, remove the nuts and bolts you come to as you work forward. Depending on how quickly you move and how close your tools are, I suspect it will take about 15 to 30 minutes.

The techniques are for the install. The manual does mention specifics, for example, as how to install the head flange gaskets. Top nuts first to a certain torque range, then the bottom nuts to another specified torque range, then the top nuts to the final torque. There are other initial and follow up steps for other parts of the exhaust system, as well.

This system seems to need to be, from other threads on this forum, installed properly or you will be fighting decel popping until you get it correct.

 

Pick up a September issue of American Bagger magazine. It has a step by step article on changing the header pipe with color pictures..

 

I hope a Sept. copy is still available.

 

Not sure this will help, but just a word of caution. I recently changed the whole exhaust system on my wife's 2011 Softail Deluxe. For some reason, after removing all the bolts and nuts, the pipe on the front cylinder did not want to pop off at the head. I was working alone, so it was hard to support the mufflers and wiggle the head pipe out. In the process I broke off a small portion of the thin piece connecting the cooling fins. Only visible if you know where to look, but still pissed me off! My advice is have a friend around to help support things.

 

Another advocate for the manual. I didn't have one and have slight decel popping. I assume its because I didn't have torque specs. I bought the manual and its definately worth it. I plan to re-do the exhaust this winter. I advise you to get the manual and avoid a re-do.

 

I replaced the header pipe on my 2012 UC as follows:

Remove both saddle bags
Remove right side cover
Remove right floorboard & passenger footrest
Remove heat shields
Cut ties holding O2 wires - release clip
Disconnect O2 plugs (note: mark each O2 sensor for correct replacement) then feed wires to floor
Remove right side muffler (left side does not need to be removed but should be supported - installation of new header pipe may require the center cross over bolt be removed)
Loosen crossover clamp
Remove nut & bolt near O2 sensors

Gradually loosen header bolts front and rear then fully loosen/remove. While holding the header, carefully work the header flanges away from ports then remove header...it's a bit heavier then it looks so be careful not to ding things.

With the header clear, remove O2 sensors - remember to mark them (top - bottom)

If the mufflers have not been removed recently, a bit of penetrating oil may help. You should loosen the clamps then spray letting the oil penetrate for a few minutes to soak in.

Have on hand new exhaust gaskets, ties, couple of new clamps, and anti-seize.

Hope that helps!

 

Assuming you have no exhaust leak, the elimination of the cat might cause more air to flow thus inducing a leaner condition.

Changing the decel enleanment or lambda in the 15 & 20 kpa column might help too.

 

Reference to illegally downloading HD manuals removed by moderator