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Why all the damn allen head and torx bolts on HD

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  #21  
Old 10-05-2011 | 03:12 AM
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V2Evo96
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From: Victoria, Australia
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Originally Posted by av ultra
Those torx bolts that hold the derby cover on are about the cheapest weakest crap I've ever seen.
Yep agreed....

I changed mine out for S/S allen head screws.
 
  #22  
Old 10-05-2011 | 03:42 AM
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Originally Posted by mike5511
Never had a problem with them......but I always loosen them with an impact driver....hint, hint.
Exactly! My first bike had all its case bolts from the factory as Phillips head. I never stripped out one of them while using a hand impact driver. I now use the same impact driver to loosen all the Allen (socket head) and Torx bolts without any problem.
 
  #23  
Old 10-05-2011 | 03:54 PM
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Originally Posted by DOMAPOI
Exactly! My first bike had all its case bolts from the factory as Phillips head. I never stripped out one of them while using a hand impact driver. I now use the same impact driver to loosen all the Allen (socket head) and Torx bolts without any problem.
That's a great solution when you have room for the impact driver. Doesn't work too well between the triple trees or around the top of the engine, between the saddlebags, shocks ect.
 
  #24  
Old 10-05-2011 | 06:06 PM
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Originally Posted by av ultra
Those torx bolts that hold the derby cover on are about the cheapest weakest crap I've ever seen.
I tried removing my derby cover the other day and to adjust the clutch and I stripped the head out on one. Out comes the dremel and the flat head impact driver...
 
  #25  
Old 10-05-2011 | 06:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Texas Fat Boy
DUDES, it's all about the install at the factory. Those bolts stay on the power wrench to install.
1 hand holding running the wrench and the other had reaching and inserting the bolt.
Exactly....Manufacturers of all sorts do time studies to manufacture as efficiently as possible. 15 minutes on a bike assembly multiplied by 150,000 bikes is a ton of money.

Your servicability issues don't come into the equation.

I pulled all mine and used Grade 8 Allens from Lowes on the first service.
 
  #26  
Old 10-05-2011 | 06:31 PM
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Originally Posted by peddler
No argument here that the tensile of stainless replacement bolts is less than hardened steel but I've got to ask the question: The tensile may be less but is it sufficient to provide sufficient clamping pressure? How many forum members have actually snapped off the heads of stainless allen bolts without significantly over torquing the bolt?

Anybody?
I've made my living in technical sales for the past 30+ years but must confess I have no experience with the technical end of fasteners. Does anyone know the answer to the questions above?
 
  #27  
Old 10-05-2011 | 08:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Drilln'Boss
It looks better.
I think that comes the closest to the answer.
 
  #28  
Old 10-05-2011 | 09:33 PM
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[QUOTE=

I pulled all mine and used Grade 8 Allens from Lowes on the first service.[/QUOTE]

That's what I started doing.
 
  #29  
Old 10-07-2011 | 02:09 AM
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Originally Posted by Sailrider 1
That's a great solution when you have room for the impact driver. Doesn't work too well between the triple trees or around the top of the engine, between the saddlebags, shocks ect.
I'm afraid to post that I've had about everything loose you can loosen on mine, and haven't stripped nothing yet.......because you know what's gonna happen the very next time I go to loosen something!!!!!!!

grade 8 from lowes huh? stainless?
 
  #30  
Old 10-07-2011 | 03:33 AM
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Originally Posted by mike5511
I'm afraid to post that I've had about everything loose you can loosen on mine, and haven't stripped nothing yet.......because you know what's gonna happen the very next time I go to loosen something!!!!!!!

grade 8 from lowes huh? stainless?
Yes, but I run their black ( iron) bolts which I like the look of on my bike.

They have drawers of what looks like stainless there also but I haven't checked it out.
 
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