Pictorial: installing Heritage-style handlebars on a 2011 Road King
#51
04-26-2012, 05:59 AM
As many other people had noted, great thread and I hope this is a sticky somewhere. My question for you concerns the TBW. I know you put tape on tope of the sensor and the bars are notched. When you put everything back together do you just make sure the notches got back in the same grooves or is the sensor a little more complicated than that.
Again, great thread and I will be doing this as soon as the funds for the bars become available.
Again, great thread and I will be doing this as soon as the funds for the bars become available.
#52
04-26-2012, 06:28 AM
That sounds right to me, although I couldn't swear to it from my own memory. I don't think this is part of the procedure that you need to worry about. They probably only go one way, and if they don't, then it doesn't matter. Good luck to you.
#53
04-27-2012, 03:31 PM
Thanks for the write up
Just wanted to say thanks for the write up. Took about 1.5 hours to do thanks to your images . I did break the green molex plug when trying to feed it back out. So be careful, and call around first to see who has extra cables they can sell or maybe give you 
off another bike they put apes on.
off another bike they put apes on.
#54
04-27-2012, 06:36 PM
Just wanted to say thanks for the write up. Took about 1.5 hours to do thanks to your images . I did break the green molex plug when trying to feed it back out. So be careful, and call around first to see who has extra cables they can sell or maybe give you off another bike they put apes on.
off another bike they put apes on.Jay
#56
04-29-2012, 03:23 PM
Tourer
Remove the decorative "spear" on top of the headlamp nacelle. It is held on with one locknut (5/16" socket) inside the top of the nacelle (not a word you use much in daily conversation). It just lifts off:
Next, we'll remove only the "handlebar clamp shroud". No need to remove the entire nacelle, although it's a bit challenging to get at the electrical connectors through the headlamp hole alone. Just undo the 2 screws which are right next to the fork lock:
and then one tiny screw on top which was under the spear. Here, I'm holding the small locknut and washer which are underneath. It's tight, but you can move the wires and get 2 fingers on them while you unscrew the screw:
Just pull off the handlebar clamp shroud:
Next, we'll remove only the "handlebar clamp shroud". No need to remove the entire nacelle, although it's a bit challenging to get at the electrical connectors through the headlamp hole alone. Just undo the 2 screws which are right next to the fork lock:
and then one tiny screw on top which was under the spear. Here, I'm holding the small locknut and washer which are underneath. It's tight, but you can move the wires and get 2 fingers on them while you unscrew the screw:
Just pull off the handlebar clamp shroud:
Here's a tip I figured out doing my bars this weekend I thought I'd share. Rather than fully remove the nut and washer from the front of the top clamp cover, just loosen the nut and pull the back of the cover up, then back the screw through the slotted hole at the rear of the nacelle. I was able to do the same in reverse on assembly, which eliminated much frustration.
Outstanding job on this installation guide Dr Jay, this should be a sticky.
I've installed those exact bars & while they were an improvement over the original Roadking bars, the wrist angle was killing my right wrist. I just ordered the "Softail Heritage handlebars from Zanottis tonite & hope that these feel as good as the Softail I sat on at the dealer today...They should as they are the very same bar!
The bars I ordered tonite are HD part # 56569-09. These bars ARE NOT notched for the TBW so that will require some altercation & there is no hole at the bottom of the bars so I will have to drill a hole & file so I can run the TBW out of the bars but they feel GREAT & hopefully will resolve the wrist angle for ME. My final & last alternative will be to bite the bullet & spend about $600 on the Wild One Chubbys & have to extend the TBW, clutch cable, control wiring & brake lines. Hoping the Softail heritage bars fill the bill!
The bars I ordered tonite are HD part # 56569-09. These bars ARE NOT notched for the TBW so that will require some altercation & there is no hole at the bottom of the bars so I will have to drill a hole & file so I can run the TBW out of the bars but they feel GREAT & hopefully will resolve the wrist angle for ME. My final & last alternative will be to bite the bullet & spend about $600 on the Wild One Chubbys & have to extend the TBW, clutch cable, control wiring & brake lines. Hoping the Softail heritage bars fill the bill!
I suspect the Heritage "Style" bars may be a better choice for shorter riders as the grip angle causes them to be layed back, which reduces height and reach. Harley should offer the 56569-09 with TBW and call them "Heritage Style Tall Bars", I think they'd be a hit.
Last edited by 68 Shovelking; 04-29-2012 at 03:25 PM.
#57
05-02-2012, 08:37 PM
Thank you Dr Jay!! Your install walk thru was invaluable to me. I installed the heritage style bars on my 2012 Road King last weekend after reading your post. Your attention to detail and the pictures let me knew what to expect every step of the way. The new bars are awesome.
My headlight trim ring I can't get it tight all the way around the nacelle. When I give it a left right tug, it pivots left-right on the top spring and bottom screw. Any thoughts on how to fix it? Should the trim ring snap in behind the headlamp bucket? Mine just sits there, it didn't snap in.
Thanks again for the great write-up on the install!
My headlight trim ring I can't get it tight all the way around the nacelle. When I give it a left right tug, it pivots left-right on the top spring and bottom screw. Any thoughts on how to fix it? Should the trim ring snap in behind the headlamp bucket? Mine just sits there, it didn't snap in.
Thanks again for the great write-up on the install!
#59
05-11-2012, 09:13 PM
Road Master