here's a video that will help with your project

http://youtu.be/7-QBH1SFyzo

 

man i got one of them sockets, with the lead in chamfer and the oring they are to shallow and want to slip off, i pulled the handlebars and used a standard socket. just my opinion

 

Yea, the 36mm flat wrench that used to come in the HD tool kits work well with a rag wrapped around the fork cap to 1) prevent marring and 2) take up the slack as it is not a 36mm cap. I've done it many times without the socket.

 

Socket arrived....gathering parts for the swap.

~Joe

 

Id like to suggest dawg's mix on fork oil too when you replace it. The mix is 50/50 SE and type "E" oil. It keeps a good ride and stops the nose dive when grabbing the front brakes.

 

I'll have to check that out.

I was planning on adding a heavier oil and a couple extra ounces to get rid of the havey nose dive I get when I really grab a handful of front brake.

I guess I need to do a search and read up on his "wirches brew".

THANKS...for the heads up.

I need to post pics of my sliders....all done by hand (polished)

cost? 8 bucks in materials, and about 6 hours labor total....a little every day after work and a few the morning.

~Joe

 

I went to tractor supply and just bought a 1 3/8 open end wrench, and as far as clearance is concerned thats what bench grinders were made for

 

Plus one. Wrench in toolkit works great. Make sure that whatever you use, you cover your tank with a thick towel(s). On the ignition switch just take it out at full lock and remove the cover then just reassemble the switch hand tight. Works great and very simple.

 

Cool.

I'll just pull the tank...done it many times....VERY easy

~Joe

 

So I don't need the special tools Harley sells to pull it apart after the **** is off? (see post #4 above)

~Joe