This is from another site, posted by someone else. I stole it, and brought it here...

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I don't claim credit for this: It comes from "Hippo" who is a HD Mechanic on the MSN, HTT Tech Talk site but I use it over the HD Shop Manual procedure.

As long as you have opened up Derby cover to check oil level, this procedure makes the clutch adjustment a little quicker IMO.

1. Loosen the clutch cable adjuster and shorten the cable sleeve as much as possible, but don’t mess with the lever. Just leave it alone until the 3rd step.

2. Loosen the lock nut on the clutch pack push rod adjuster.

3. Pull in the clutch lever. It should touch the handle bar grip. If it does not touch the handle bar grip back out the push rod adjuster at the clutch pack while keeping pressure on the clutch lever until it touches the handlebar.

4. When the clutch lever touches the handle bar turn in the push rod adjuster while keeping pressure with your hand on the clutch lever. When you turn in the adjuster it will start to push the lever off the handle bar. Back the adjuster out until the lever returns to just touching the handle bar. Do this a couple of times until you know you are at the point where the lever is just touching the bar. When you find this point - back the adjuster out 1/2 turn and lock it down.

5. Adjust the clutch cable to 1/8 slack and lock it down.

Buy yourself a cheap 11/16 deep well socket and weld a nut on top of it. This makes the perfect tool for the adjuster lock nut as you can then use an allen wrench inside the socket to prevent the adjuster screw from turning with the nut. Makes it a lot simpler. ( Note from Green Hornet..I use a big pair of curved jaw lockjoint pliers cranked down on the 11/16 socket)

 

Seen this before. I have no problem with my offset box wrench. Do some Harley engines have a clearance problem between lock nut and outer primary case? The torque is fairly low for this nut.

 

Mine has always done it to some extent when cold and I adjust my clutch every 5k when servicing my bike. I always start mine in neutral and have never had any issues.

 

Both mine and my wifes do the same thing more when cold.

 

Again, this is a classic case of: Buy the hot damn shop manual!

 

What is this in reference to? Is it because I asked a question about clutch adjustment? And what is a "hot damn shop manual"?

 

i would guess hd shop manual, mental. theres nothing wrong with asking questions, it seems clutch adjusting has been debated forever, sides its hard to talk to a manual lol

 

Thats what I thought, I do have and did use the shop manual, watched a video that's posted on here in another thread and still had questions. Unlike the other posts, Slewfoot's was not very helpful to me, classic!

 

Classic case of someone that should spend time on another forum...

 

If you start in gear when cold you are decreasing the life of the starter IMO for no reason. Warm is easier on it, N is best.