Is this what an E3 looks like after 6k miles?
#21
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Tallahassee, FL/Blue Ridge, GA
Posts: 755
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Same here.
My indy said ne normally gets 5k HARD miles on his personal bike with 402s, and he's around 9k and still has some life in his first E3. I hope that's the norm and not what I'm seeing here.
#22
So I've always run ME880s and decided to run the E3s for the first time this year. Well, after 6,000 miles my rear tire looks like it's done! Or is this still good for a while yet? Most of the miles are on the highway at 65mph, solo with 42psi in the tire & not an aggresive style. Front tire looks great ( they usually do ).
I can't find anything that says when to repace these tires.
Help! Everything I read said I should get more mileage than that!
I can't find anything that says when to repace these tires.
Help! Everything I read said I should get more mileage than that!
Those tread grooves are good at moving water away from the center of the tire, & rubber on the road is what you want. That wide band in the middle is actually a plus if the water is being removed, & you aren't past the wear bars.
#23
Hate to disagree with most of the folks here, but that tire looks fine...(for an E3). Look closely in the longer tread grooves, there's a *very* small tread wear bar in there. I just replaced an E3 with a little over 15K on it, & it wasn't *quite* down to the wear bars. Close enough that I didn't want to be swapin' tires just before my next long trip, but with enough life left to be safe. The tire I replaced looked like yours by 6 or 7 K. They wear flat in the center with tread on the edges. Works just fine. Find the little tiny wear bars & you'll see what I mean.
Those tread grooves are good at moving water away from the center of the tire, & rubber on the road is what you want. That wide band in the middle is actually a plus if the water is being removed, & you aren't past the wear bars.
Those tread grooves are good at moving water away from the center of the tire, & rubber on the road is what you want. That wide band in the middle is actually a plus if the water is being removed, & you aren't past the wear bars.
#25
I've got about 9K on my rear & it looks like it will go at least another 9K or more. I'm running a 160/80-16 on what's basically a 07 rear set-up, it's a 2000 with 07 swingarm, belt & pulley, all I had to do was trim the belt guard to get it to fit. That includes 1400 mi to Sturgis & back at 80+, the rest of the miles around Ia, Mn, & Wi, as many curves as I can find, hard to do in IA. I just measured mine & I have a full 7/32 left, get a tire depth gauge & measure the grooves that go the furthest in toward the center of the tire, I've yet to find any wear bars on mine & I've looked pretty hard. Contrary to popular belief a motorcycle tire doesn't wear in the center because of too much pressure, it's going to wear in the center no matter how much pressure you run if you run only on flat, straight roads. The main cause of wear is friction & heat, both of which are greater if the tire is under inflated. Yes a car tire will wear in the center if over inflated because it has a basically flat tread, it isn't rounded like a motorcycle tire. I've been running 43-44 psi & I'm totally impressed with the E3, both wear & handling, I was hoping to get 10K or better out of it, but it looks like I might actually get 20K or more, I'll report back in a new thread when I replace it. I ride pretty aggressively & was only getting 5-8K out of the 150/70-18s I was running before, so this set-up is saving me quite a bit of $, plus I got away from spoke wheels after 2 flats in 3 weeks this spring. Bottom line is get a depth gauge & run at least the max pressure or a little bit more in your tires, if you don't believe me ask any of the tire reps.