Help!! I think I may have screwed up!!!
#1
Help!! I think I may have screwed up!!!
Just not my day. I was changing my oil in my 2003 Road King. Don't know what I was thinking I pulled the plug from the crank case, book says it's no 15. A little oil came out then stopped. I thought I had removed the drain plug for the engine oil. I also changed the trans oil and the primary oil. Imagine my surprise when after dumping only two and a half quarts of oil in the filler tube it started running out all over the floor.. I then drained the oil using the correct drain plug (front left side on pan). I need to get more oil today to finish filling the oil to the right fill mark. (just a few quarts short for now) Big question is do I have to try to put oil back into the crankcase where the small plug is in the front case from or will it find its way there on its own.
#3
Just not my day. I was changing my oil in my 2003 Road King. Don't know what I was thinking I pulled the plug from the crank case, book says it's no 15. A little oil came out then stopped. I thought I had removed the drain plug for the engine oil. I also changed the trans oil and the primary oil. Imagine my surprise when after dumping only two and a half quarts of oil in the filler tube it started running out all over the floor.. I then drained the oil using the correct drain plug (front left side on pan). I need to get more oil today to finish filling the oil to the right fill mark. (just a few quarts short for now) Big question is do I have to try to put oil back into the crankcase where the small plug is in the front case from or will it find its way there on its own.
#4
i'm glad you brought this topic up. i think the next time i change my oil, i'll clean up the plug and paint it yellow, at least the top of the hex head, and perhaps red for the trans. as i get older, i still refer to the service manual but it'd be an easy way to see what the heck i'm unscrewing when i change oil. brake parts cleaner should remove every bit of oil so the spray paint will stick, if not, no big loss, but it might make it easier.
#5
i'm glad you brought this topic up. i think the next time i change my oil, i'll clean up the plug and paint it yellow, at least the top of the hex head, and perhaps red for the trans. as i get older, i still refer to the service manual but it'd be an easy way to see what the heck i'm unscrewing when i change oil. brake parts cleaner should remove every bit of oil so the spray paint will stick, if not, no big loss, but it might make it easier.
#6
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Red Banks, Mississippi
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Welcome to the forum.
No need to put any oil back in the crankcase. The less in there the better, the oil pump scavenges it out of there anyway. Be very careful not to over tighten the crankcase plug.
Kevin
No need to put any oil back in the crankcase. The less in there the better, the oil pump scavenges it out of there anyway. Be very careful not to over tighten the crankcase plug.
Kevin
#7
very careful indeed--- NPT means "National Pipe Thread" the threads are not even, they taper--- like plumbing pipe
If over tightened they will quickly and easily strip out--- then it becomes a matter of drilling and tapping ( cut threads) to the next size up.
( If you have to do this, you need to force grease into the tap ( cutting tool, it has grooves for this) before you start, that will catch the cut metal and hopefully allow you to keep the inside of the motor clean.)
To start the plug, get it in position, then rotate counter clockwise slowly, you will feel a "click" which means the threads are lined up and you can more easily start the plug into position
The threads should probably also be sealed so that they don't leak/seep and so that the plug doesn't come loose.
IF the head on the plug looks worn, like you might get it halfway in and the head strips, go get a new one before you start.
Should be easy, just take your time.
Almost everybody has dumped out the wrong hole one time or another.
mike
If over tightened they will quickly and easily strip out--- then it becomes a matter of drilling and tapping ( cut threads) to the next size up.
( If you have to do this, you need to force grease into the tap ( cutting tool, it has grooves for this) before you start, that will catch the cut metal and hopefully allow you to keep the inside of the motor clean.)
To start the plug, get it in position, then rotate counter clockwise slowly, you will feel a "click" which means the threads are lined up and you can more easily start the plug into position
The threads should probably also be sealed so that they don't leak/seep and so that the plug doesn't come loose.
IF the head on the plug looks worn, like you might get it halfway in and the head strips, go get a new one before you start.
Should be easy, just take your time.
Almost everybody has dumped out the wrong hole one time or another.
mike
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#9
My manual says to never,never, ever remove this plug or the bike is done for! Funny how that plug and the oil drain plug look identical!
But like mkguitar said, just take your time and all will work out. Make sure you clean all that oil off the engine also or you'll look like James Bond going down the road.
But like mkguitar said, just take your time and all will work out. Make sure you clean all that oil off the engine also or you'll look like James Bond going down the road.
#10