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  #11  
Old 08-22-2011, 07:16 AM
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royston, I had alot of these same suggestions also --- Open the lowers or take them off, get a crotch cooler, put on a fan, whatever. I didn't want to cover up or "mask" this heat, I wanted to get rid of it. I did, with the Power Duals, and a dyno tune that was done right. Service Dept where I bought the bike told me (pretty much) it is what it is, live with it. I went somewhere else, and the heat is "normal" now.
 
  #12  
Old 08-22-2011, 07:49 AM
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I can def feel the heat coming off the bike but it is not ever to the point that I am so uncomfortable that I need to get off the bike. Added Supertrapp slipons and today a Big Sucker......then either the HD download or xieds or a Super Tuner. Heck I can feel the bike seems to be more responsive with the slipons alone. Heat feels like my VTX when I had Roadburner pipes on there....
 
  #13  
Old 08-22-2011, 08:35 AM
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I checked my oil temperature yesterday after coming home from an 80 mile trip riding one up. All of the miles were interstate miles @ 70-75 mph. The outside ambient air temp was 104 degrees. Ya, that is hot, but this part of the country is always hot this time of the year. Anyway, I hopped off and immediately pulled the oil cap and shot it with an Infared thermometer. I got 248.5 degrees. This is typical because I have checked it 3 times this summer, all readings were about the same. My bike is an 09 with the lower fairings removed in the summer months, cause it definitelly helps to keep me cooler. I don't have any cats in my Rush aftermarket pipes. I installed a TFI fuel management device 40,000 miles ago. I use either Rotella diesel oil or Mobil V-Twin synthetic in the crankcase. I quit riding in slow moving parades etc., so I don't use the synthetic anymore. It will protect to 300+ oil temps but with my riding style my oil temps never get even close to the danger zone. I note that the software that allows the rear cylinder to cut out when at a stop sign does not cut in until oil temp reaches about 278 degrees. That should be your "heads up" that it is time to get moving or park for awhile should the temp get up around 325 degrees or so. Still, it won't melt down at 325 degrees, but it might start to smoke around the fins a little. At 325 degrees I would expect the engine to "ping" like crazy when accelerating. Again, a heads up to start to change your riding style a little. These air cooled engines are made to run hot. If getting hot were a problem with late model Harleys, we would see the roadways littered with them. But, we don't. You will see more bikes sitting stranded because of flat tires than you will with hot oil issues.
 

Last edited by texaswiz; 08-22-2011 at 08:40 AM.
  #14  
Old 08-22-2011, 08:41 AM
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According to my dipstick guage my 2012 with the 103 is running about 20-25 degrees cooler than my 2010 with the 96. It also just feels cooler too.
 
  #15  
Old 08-22-2011, 09:24 AM
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I was at the dealer looking at a 2012 Ultra Classic (the Sunglo/Merlot is incredible) and was seriously thinking of selling my '08 Goldwing and getting the UC. But the last thing I want is to spend money extra money just to make some of the heat go away. I'm now seriously thinking of keeping the Goldwing because of the heat issue. I have always wanted a Harley but maybe this is not the right time to buy. Wife and I always do trips of 4-6,000 miles on the Wing and I don't like the sound of this heat issue the new Harleys are having.
 

Last edited by AZdryheat; 08-22-2011 at 09:26 AM.
  #16  
Old 08-22-2011, 09:27 AM
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2011 RKC with the 103. I could fry bacon on the right side. Did the Fullsack header with V&H monster ovals. You have to do a supertuner (the stock downloads will not get you where you want to be) and a spacer and air cleaner that gets more air through the stock cover. Difference is night and day. I don't feel any heat at all now, granted the hotest it gets here is about 95.
 
  #17  
Old 08-22-2011, 10:26 AM
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Either I have a lot more ability to handle heat or my 100% stock '11 SG with the powerpac has some unknown secret cooling ingrediant. But I just don't have the heat problem.


I run it 100% stock with just a set of RJS Orginals heat shields and I've never been uncomfortable riding anywhere or anytime this summer in the Northeast.

That includes sitting in rt 80 traffic jams for an hour, sitting at long lights after highway riding, running slow through town all day. The bike does not go into heat managment mode and there is no burnning sensation on the right or left side.
 
  #18  
Old 08-22-2011, 11:23 AM
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here in the desert southwest of arizona daily temps 110, night lows in the 90's. Catless header and all stage 1 components with tuner and no radiant heat felt from engine. Not to mention gained 12 ponies.
2011 streetglide with 103.

Fuel Moto ceramic header, jackpot mufflers, stage 1 AC, PCV and dyno tune. No popping, no pinging, runs cool, fast and smooth. Total project cost under 2K.
 

Last edited by Azsg2011; 08-22-2011 at 11:28 AM.
  #19  
Old 08-22-2011, 01:54 PM
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Mine runs hot but it's nothing I can't handle. Just chalk it up to the nature of the beast.
 
  #20  
Old 08-22-2011, 07:09 PM
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I'm running an '11 UC with the 96 inch motor. Just running stage 1 air cleaner with the HD download. I have fatshotz mufflers on there as well. I am in Texas where all summer it's been over 100 every day...I've not noticed any heat that was out of the ordinary on the new bike. I came off of an '03 UC that I put 48k miles on. I cannot tell any difference in the heat on the '11 versus the '03. I haven't checked the oil temp, but the "seat of the pants" thermometer doesn't notice anything out of the norm.
 


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