RLAP How to Ride the clutch?
#12
Great discussion here. If you want to find out just how much difference the friction zone and rear brake make with handling, get into a slow tight turn, release the brake, pull in the clutch and zero the throttle at the same time. You'll be on the crash bars before you know it. Been there. Jerry just shook his head. Keep that little bit of power to the rear wheel and you've got it greased. Oh, and "Turn that head!"
#13
Most of the handling advice given has been good but my question for the OP is this: Why don't you fix the bike so it fits you and can be driven to its potential instead of having the bars that hit your tights (thighs, I presume) and trying to move your legs out of the way of the bars while attempting to steer. That seems rather doofus, if you don't mind my saying so.
#14
Yep,
a lot of got answers and informations. It's easy to catch the point with your advice. Thanks!
Yes it's doofus (nice word) but i made it to work and knowing from the first day I had this bar, I'd better go with another one that aint that cool.
But as most of us driving arround in Jet-Helmets and some even in T-Shirts or without gloves, doofus seems beeing very realtive, if you don't mind my saying so
Beside that, you are absolutely right! So i've said all this when i've started the thread.
While im writing this, I'm laughing about my self, asking this questions like a moron and knowing, I should better come back soon as I have a new clutch and a less old-style-cool-looking-bar.
I'll fix the clutch, get another bar (maybe) and get pratice on RLAP.
a lot of got answers and informations. It's easy to catch the point with your advice. Thanks!
Most of the handling advice given has been good but my question for the OP is this: Why don't you fix the bike so it fits you and can be driven to its potential instead of having the bars that hit your tights (thighs, I presume) and trying to move your legs out of the way of the bars while attempting to steer. That seems rather doofus, if you don't mind my saying so.
But as most of us driving arround in Jet-Helmets and some even in T-Shirts or without gloves, doofus seems beeing very realtive, if you don't mind my saying so
Beside that, you are absolutely right! So i've said all this when i've started the thread.
While im writing this, I'm laughing about my self, asking this questions like a moron and knowing, I should better come back soon as I have a new clutch and a less old-style-cool-looking-bar.
I'll fix the clutch, get another bar (maybe) and get pratice on RLAP.
#15
Hi,
I'd call my a skilled driver. Short turns go easy but I'm Miles away from RLAP especially at walking speed.
I wonder how it works to Ride the Clutch? I've trained it a couple times but somehow it feels wrong to me.
My Bar is wide and deep (probably the Problem #1). Means i can't lock the bar cause i touch my tights with the bar. To get an shorter angle i lift of my curveinner foot from the Floorboard an strech it forward, on left, or move the tight off the Tank, on right. Beside that i have to lean forward to hold the bar.
Btw have you ever noticed the difference in manouvering with new tires vs. worn out ones. It's a huge difference.
Ok, in slow turns i use the rear brake and work with the Throttle. But what am I suppose to do with the clutch? My clutch is old and there is short engagement (Problem #2). What RPM should i have in small slow turns? I guess I run below 2.000 (maybe <1.500) rpm in short curves.
What is the trick about it? Hold your RPM at 2', 3', 4.000 RPM, get on the rear brake and contoll it with the clutch?
And why is it better to controll the forward movement with the clutch instead of the throttle (throttle moves easy while clutch is hard)?
While im writing this, I'm laughing about my self, asking this questions like a moron and knowing, I should better come back soon as I have a new clutch and a less old-style-cool-looking-bar.
Anyway I'm interested in how RLAP works.
I'd call my a skilled driver. Short turns go easy but I'm Miles away from RLAP especially at walking speed.
I wonder how it works to Ride the Clutch? I've trained it a couple times but somehow it feels wrong to me.
My Bar is wide and deep (probably the Problem #1). Means i can't lock the bar cause i touch my tights with the bar. To get an shorter angle i lift of my curveinner foot from the Floorboard an strech it forward, on left, or move the tight off the Tank, on right. Beside that i have to lean forward to hold the bar.
Btw have you ever noticed the difference in manouvering with new tires vs. worn out ones. It's a huge difference.
Ok, in slow turns i use the rear brake and work with the Throttle. But what am I suppose to do with the clutch? My clutch is old and there is short engagement (Problem #2). What RPM should i have in small slow turns? I guess I run below 2.000 (maybe <1.500) rpm in short curves.
What is the trick about it? Hold your RPM at 2', 3', 4.000 RPM, get on the rear brake and contoll it with the clutch?
And why is it better to controll the forward movement with the clutch instead of the throttle (throttle moves easy while clutch is hard)?
While im writing this, I'm laughing about my self, asking this questions like a moron and knowing, I should better come back soon as I have a new clutch and a less old-style-cool-looking-bar.
Anyway I'm interested in how RLAP works.
#16
35 years ago in School in Germany and still living there.
Sorry for the syntax, tought it aint that bad. Didn't speak english for almost 20 years.
You would wonder how the syntax would be if I'd used Google Translate.
Hope I didn't upset you. I'll try doing better.
Sorry for the syntax, tought it aint that bad. Didn't speak english for almost 20 years.
You would wonder how the syntax would be if I'd used Google Translate.
Hope I didn't upset you. I'll try doing better.
Last edited by SHAKEME; 08-06-2011 at 04:49 AM.
#17
The biggest reason you bring the RPM's up to 2000-3000 is because the motor then acts like a GIANT GYROSCOPE. We have all had gyro's as a kid and found it nearly impossible to change its direction once spinning...same principle...all those rotating components in the engine act to stabilize it, therefore allowing you greater control over the bike.
Bring the RPM's up to 3000, hold the clutch in the friction zone and modulate your speed with the rear brake and you can ride your bike all over the place, in the tightest of circles, at walking speeds with ease!
m.a.c.
Bring the RPM's up to 3000, hold the clutch in the friction zone and modulate your speed with the rear brake and you can ride your bike all over the place, in the tightest of circles, at walking speeds with ease!
m.a.c.
#18
I just got RLAP combo pack, but haven't opened it yet. I got an email from them showing these leather crash bar protectors they sell for $39.95. If I drop the bike while practicing these techniques, will the crash bars be the only part that touches down? I ride a street glide, so the saddlebags have no protection. I was considering removing them while I practice. Am I worrying too much here? Will the front crash bars be all that touches down? If so, the RLAP leather might be a well spent $40.
#19
Been down once or twice. Bothtimes at slow speed on Sand so there are no scratches at all. But shure the leather will help. But will your exhaust touch?? Not shure about this but it think ... Yes.
BTW have a look on that second clip to get an idea
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...llen-over.html
BTW have a look on that second clip to get an idea
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...llen-over.html
#20
I wish they would show them lifting a big ole street glide or ultra instead of a sportster...
I expect the angle the bike would be in due to the crash bars would cause my street glide to touch only on the crash bars and the saddlebags. Of course I don't want anything to touch, but just wondering... I would like to learn the RLAP skills, but don't want to scratch the bike doing so.
I expect the angle the bike would be in due to the crash bars would cause my street glide to touch only on the crash bars and the saddlebags. Of course I don't want anything to touch, but just wondering... I would like to learn the RLAP skills, but don't want to scratch the bike doing so.