I was talking to the Dennis Kirk Tech department to confirm the part numbers of the Magnum cables I was going to purchase for my handlebar change.The Tech said I need to take my bike to the dealer and have the ABS flashed after I change the cables.He said there is no way to avoid having to do it. I asked what the dealers usually charge for that and he said about $100.00. Can anybody share additional information and tell me if this is right. I've been a little frustrated on this cable thing because several have said you only have to replace the top ABS brake line and others have said you have to replace the upper and midline ABS brake line.The midline is about another $80.00 and I would just as soon not buy it if it isn't necessary.One of the people that said it needs to be replaced is the Magnum representative.

 

If I remember correctly, the stock brake cable on my 2010 Ultra is one top cable to ABS module and two lower/front cables to the rotors.

After market cables replace the one piece stock top cable with a two piece (upper and lower) cable. That way if you switch bars again and go higher, you only have to replace the upper cable that runs from your lever to the lower cable.

 

I just switched bars on my 2012 Limited. On my bike, the only ABS line I had to replace was from the Master Cylinder to the ABS box(Right side of bike under the side cover).

I bled the brakes with a Mityvac and have a firm lever, and the ABS light goes out like it should. It was a PITA bleeding them though, 1st day didn't work so well, left the M/C open overnight and tried it again the next day and it worked great.

 

IF you get air in the ABS module then it will have to go to the dealer to be bled with the diagnostic tool hooked up to activate the ABS. IF you are very careful you can change the line and not get air in the ABS module. It has been done.

 

Have done 2 abs kits.Neither had to go to the dealer. I used a syringe to wet the lines first and bled like normal. Got 98% of the air out, and the lever feels good as stock. When the bikes sit for a while you have to give one pump and they are back to normal. Never an issue though.

the stock upper line is 1 piece,the replacement lines are 2 pieces,upper and mid line.

 

You only need to take it in if you get air in the abs module. I just pulled fluid through using a vacuum pump until it flowed freely and hooked up flick the lever until no air and buttoned up. Worked great.

 

I put new bars on and all I did was fill the reservoir and then used a vacuum to pull the fluid through the line to get it "flowing" then bolted it down, worked great, no dealer involved.... I spilled plenty of fluid but it was an easy cleanup and better than going in...

 

I just had mine done last week. It cost $38. Anytime you break the connection between the ABS control unit and the brake control itself you need this service performed. There is NO vac workaround because the unit must be activated to purge all air that may in it. Air in the unit will cause it to fail.

 

The part about air in the unit is correct. The key is to not get air in the unit. If you do it right then that doesn't happen. As long as you don't pull air into the module you're good. mask off the bike with plastic. Pull the fluid from the MC to the end of the line at the module until it flows freely. Once you think that is the case pull some more fluid through. Top off the hole in the module and mount the flowing line to the module. Let sit a while. Flick the lever a bit to make sure there are no bubbles and you're good to go. My ABS works great, brakes are strong, and no codes. I have helped 2 others do the exact same thing with the same results and there are MANY on this forum who have done it successfully. I agree its cheap depending on the dealer so do what works best for you. The connection has nothing to do with it except air. The digital technician pulses the module to get all of the ari out of it.

 

Ok, first with the Magnum lines you're getting.....you replace the one piece stock upper line with two seperate lines(mid and upper). Second, from what i've read, you can bleed your lines and THINK you have done a good job and have a good brake.....but if the abs module ever activates, you will NOT have any front brake! I'm not positive on the bleeding part, but decided not to risk it! The dealer told me they will charge me $35, which is their minimum charge for shop time(1/2hr).