My new to me 2009 ultra, with stage 2, oil cooler, se tuner and rush exhaust, runs hot, presumably lean. Really became a problem in 95 degree heat funeral procession this weekend. Loud tin can panging sound. Stopped for an hour, let it cool. All is well. Amsoil 20w50 synthetic.

Not knowing if the prior owner ever did more than put in the base map with the tuner, I'm getting a dyno this week. My goals are: good gas mileage (i avg 38-41 now) since I do lots of touring, good torque at higher rpm (highway/passing torque), and running cooler. That last bit may be inconsistent with my first requests, but its the whole reason I'm going. I ride in all conditions, weather, and traffic. I don't need to beat anyone off the line or blow doors off in town. Most the time I cruise at 2k - 2500 rpm, unless on highway of course. I always shift before 3500 rpm.

So, finally, my question to you: anything you came across AFTER a dyno that you wish you would have discussed with dyno tech before or during the service? I've never had a dyno service on another bike, suggestions?

Thanks

 

Why pay a tuner to dyno your bike when you can install a Dynojet PCV with auto tune for the same money. I've been down the same road your going and wish I had my dyno tune money back. If you have a laptop you can be your own tuner with any mods you make and if you use fuelmoto you've got all the support you could ever need just a phone call away at no charge.

 

Since you cruise in the 2000-2500 range and you shift before 3500 rpm, why do you want the torque in the higher rpms?

 

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Why anyone would want an add-on device that intercepts stock signals and modifies them I have no idea. Especially since the add-on devices aren't built to the same standards as the stock ECM. Sensitive to water, and definitely not as durable. Add to that the wide-band 02 sensors aren't that great.

Really the OP has the right idea. Go to a dyno tuner and have the bike programmed right. It's far better in the long run. Plus the OP already has a tuner. No need to add an inferior piece of equipment when he already has a tuner.

 

i am having my rkc dyno tuned this week. I wanted to stay with the HD tuner, and while it is not TTS it probably is just fine and will be spot on when tuned this week.
I had a TMAX on my 07 flstf, and i never thought that it was ever tuned correctly to my liking and i will not go that route again.
Just my 2 cents.

 

A dyno is only as good as the person doing the tuning.

 

Piasspj- I could have phrased it better, but I guess high/low rpm is relative. I don't need it off the line from 1500-2000 rpm, I do need it at 3000+ for passing.

I have no interest in adding a pcv and agree completely with jcleary. Plus, I've ridden for 20 years and never even had a windshield before. I don't own a laptop. I will not accept that I need to pull out a laptop or, worse yet, carry one in order to get a quality ride. If thats the case, then my knucklehead, shovel and carb'd fatboy were all much more advanced, from a practical level, than these new suburban haulers. But I digress...

 

I used a tuner that I trust so I knew he would do a very good job, no questions needed. If you do a little homework on your tuner, you should be satisfied. Find someone you can trust.

 

OK, so I have the Harley race tuner on my 06 Ultra along with stage 1, V&H true duals and slip ons. I have the CD and cableing also, can I hook up and change the maping to make it better? I have no experience with this so don't know what to do??? Does someone have a map they can send me etc. I live at 4500' and mostly ride the mountains but sometimes go East but never go below 3500'.

Had it installed when bike was new and dealer dynoed it and tuned it, it runs good but there is always that question that it could be better.