I've got an ARC 125.2 amp running a pair of 6x9's in my bag lids. I've got a set of Polk 5.25 in the fairing being run off the deck.

Can I wire the left speakers in series and run them off channel 1 on the amp, and do the same for the right side and plug in to channel 2? Is this what is referred to as bridging? Would power be reduced?

Thanks
Zach

 

Here's a pretty good explanation of the effects of wiring series vs. parallel- http://www.termpro.com/articles/spkrz.html . Hope it answers all your questions.
BTW, how do you like those Polk speakers? I'm thinking about replacing my stock with a set of those.

 

Thanks Rage, that is very helpful. I would have wired it wrong to start with.

Haven't heard the Polks yet. Waiting to decide if I'm going to use the existing ARC amp, or add a RF unit to the system.

Thanks,
Zach

 

I have completed my amp re-wire project and replaced the stock HK stereo with a Sony DSX-S100 stereo. The speakers are now wired in parallel according to the link rage4order posted in this thread. I also used the Biketronics module to retail hand controls for the stereo operation.

My issue now is that it sounds like the rear speakers are weaker than they were before. The front speakers sound very loud, almost to the point they would if I had a fade control biased 70% to the front. The stereo has fde control, but because of the way I have wired the speakers, it doesn't do anything.

My system consists of:

Sony DSX-S100 stereo with Biketronics install kit and module
Front speakers are Polk Audio DXi525 5.25"
Rear speakers are ARC Audio KS6936 6x9 in Cyclesounds bag lids
ARC Audio KS125.2 mini amp - 2 channel 125 wat at 2 ohms
Power @ 4 ohms 2 X 70 watts Power @ 2 ohms 2 x 125 watts Power @ 4 ohms (Bridged) 1 x 250 watts
Again, the speakers are wired parallel (Left side front and rear positive speaker terminals are wired together then wired to channel 1 on the amp. Same for negative side. Repeated the same procedure for the right side into channel 2).

My previous system was stock HK stereo running J&M 5.25" fairing speakers and the ARC running the 6x9's using speaker level input. The 6x9's sounded louder and more full range than they do now.

Any ideas? I was thinking of taking the bike up to the local ARC dealer and seeing if it is all in the tuning of the deck and amp.

Zach

 

speakers have differing sensitivities- as in how many decibels they produce for each watt power.

this is usually expressed in the specs as X dB at 1 watt power measured at 1 meter
( and this is the best way to select speakers, those which will produce more sound for the power you have.)

this is probably what you are up against, rather than a wiring problem.

however, most speakers with a "positive" pulse on the sine wave, move forwards...others are exactly opposite.

when wiring speakers in groups if they are not the same kind it is sometimes required to wire 1 electrically out of phase from the other- so that the sound waves are in phase.

to test this- disconnect the speaker- briefly apply a 9 volt battery to the terminals...positive to positive- if the speaker moves forward- then it is like most of the speakers in the world.

If it moves back- fine, just make a note of that.

Now check the other speaker in the pair ( which are wired together)- if it moves in the same direction, great.
If not, just reverse the wires going to one of the speakers ( doesn't mater which one--- just make sure you do the same on the other side.

I work with speakers and amps for a living ( not car audio stuff)

Mike

 

mkguitar - Thanks for the reply and it makes sense (I think). I looked up the sensitivity of both sets of speakers

Polk Audio DXi525 = 93dB @ 1 watt
ARC Audio KS6936 = 86dB @ 1 watt

I don't know a lot, but I do know 7dB is a pretty good difference. Could I just be experiencing the results of poorly planned/matched speakers?

I will do the "phase test" on the rear speakers tonight. Pulling that fairing to test the fronts isn't something I look forward to doing. Seems it gets tougher to line everything up every time I take it off.

Thanks again for you reply.

Zach

 

Zack,

Can't help with the audio question except to recommend visiting this website and email the guy who operates it; he's an expert:

http://www.bcae1.com/

Also, you could probably sell the Arc amp for what a new Rockford Fosgate PBR300X4 amp will cost; and, you could hook up the speakers in 4-channels and have fader control via the aftermarket headunit.

Good luck with your project.

Carl

 

7 dB is alot--- more than twice as loud for the same power--- that would probably explain what you are seeing ( or hearing, or not hearing)

Phase--- if you can SEE the speakers when you test through the grill cloth that'll be easier.

also you have wired in parallel so you could do the test at the speaker lines you ran to the rear speakers--- just make sure the power is off on the bike.

so you should be able to leave the fairing together.

understand?



( most audio suppliers have + = forward movement, among those who use reverse polarity is JBL, kind of a big name in my work world)

mike

 

Thanks Mike. I can definitely see the speaker through the grills on both the front and rear speakers. I believe what you are telling me makes sense, but let me state it the way I understand it. Then you can tell me if I'm really understanding it or not.

If I (BRIEFLY) apply voltage from the 9V battery positive terminal to the positive speaker terminal on my 6x9 in my bag, I should see it move either forward or backward. Because that positive speaker terminal is wired directly to the positive speaker terminal of the front fairing speaker, the front speaker should also "see" that voltage and move in a direction at the same time. I just need to note which direction they are moving in. If one moves forward and the other moves backward they are "out of phase" and positive and negative terminals need to be crossed on one of the speakers.

Let me know if I am getting it and thank you very much for the help.

Carl - Thank you for that link. It is very helpful.

Assuming the phase test will result in both speakers being in phase, I think I will ditch the ARC 6x9's and pick up a pair of Polk DXi690 6x9's which have a matching 93dB @ 1 watt sensitivity rating as my front Polks.

Just like an engine build, all components must compliment each other.

Zach

 

Zach you are correct for the phase check, but I think at this point we have narrowed it down to sensitivity.

if you phase check:

power off, because testing this way we are still connected to the amp through the speaker wires- if the fairing were off, we would disconnect from the amp, that is preferable

briefly, like momentarily- as long as you have the battery + the same way each time you test, you are ok.

9 volt battery, because that is easy ( we all have them and the terminals match the spacing on speaker terminals) --- less voltage works fine too, if you have a worn out 9 volt use that--- or you can short out a 9 volt to drain it ------ snap 2 together, makes "Canadian Hand Warmer"


yes matching sensitivity.

Now, sensitivity is measured at 1 kiloHertz.

If you can listen to the speakers ( like car audio display) and make sure they have somewhat even response.



Mike

phase check 2: i sometimes use a flashlight through the grill to see what the speakers are doing- playing music with a strong pulse will often let you feel the pulses with your hands in front of the speakers you can feel if in sync

I also have test equipment that I use for very complex systems ( I can input pulses and check phasing all the way through multiple devices) - the above works for quick checks on simple systems

If L and R speakers are not in phase, overall bass will be reduced, and when your head is exactly centered betwenn them, you will hear the sound drop out as if your ears are blocked---- if you move your head side to side a few inches it will sound as if each ear is being blocked in turn as you sway---- I often hear this in retail stores from their in house music systems--- what's really sad ( Fry's) is if they are selling audio equipment