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Headlight Daytime Visibility

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Old 07-19-2011, 11:59 AM
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Default Headlight Daytime Visibility

I have been looking at various plug & play options to improve headlight visibility to cagers during daytime hours. I would like to keep the cost below $200.

I have considered the following:
1. Harley Performance Xenon headlamp - $20
2. Sylvania Silverstar, PIAA Super Plasma GT-x or PIAA Intense White bulb ($50-80)
3. Harley Dual Bulb Halogen kit ($150-175)

I have eliminated HID (good quality HID kits are well over $200) and the HD Led (over $400 and poor daytime visibility) from consideration. I have also eliminated the Trucklight LED due to cost and fitment issues.
I know that there are low cost HID kits available but I believe in most cases that you get what you pay for when buying HID kits.

So for those that have tried any of the options that I am considering, what is the recommendation (pros/cons).
 
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Old 07-19-2011, 01:19 PM
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If you have passing lamps the easiest thing to do would be to modify the circuit so that your high beam can be on when your passing lamps are lit. This makes for great visibility. It's also against DOT rules. I've done it on every bike I've owned and in 25 years of riding, I've never had anyone pull out on me.
 
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Old 07-19-2011, 01:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Guitar4Him
If you have passing lamps the easiest thing to do would be to modify the circuit so that your high beam can be on when your passing lamps are lit. This makes for great visibility. It's also against DOT rules. I've done it on every bike I've owned and in 25 years of riding, I've never had anyone pull out on me.
Can you jury-rig the connection at the headlight opening (harness) or due you have to open up the fairing?
 
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Old 07-19-2011, 02:34 PM
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I expect I'll get some flack from the real bikers but I'd reccomend a headlight modulator. You will definitly get noticed. I had one on my last two Harleys, low rider and Street Glide and just yesterday two folks pulled over and let me by. It only works on high beam with daylight so you can turn it off if your riding in a group or don't need it. It's a plug and play and they are under a $100 on the internet. Plugs inbetween the headlight and the headlight plug and your sensor runs up to daylight. I put mine by the brake on the right and you can't even tell it's there. I'd rather be safe than cool.
 
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Old 07-19-2011, 03:27 PM
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I use the Sylvania ULTRA Silverstar bukb, and, I
adjusted the headlight up. This enables me to see
further down the pavement in the dark AND it gets
the beam up where the cagers can see easier.
How Do I Know??? I get cages flashing me when
running on Lo-beam, and then I flip it to Hi-beam
on them and they leave me alone after that.
I adjust up the headlights on everything I drive
so I can be seen easier and earlier.......
 
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Old 07-19-2011, 03:28 PM
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I also have wired my driving lamps to stay on with
the HI or LO beams...
 
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Old 07-19-2011, 04:28 PM
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Head light Modulator!!!!! Been running one 7 years now and would not ride a bike with out one. Florida state troopers recommend the headlight modulator and the flashing stoplight.
 
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Old 07-19-2011, 05:30 PM
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Radiantz led turn signals(get the ones with "drugz" technology). They stay on full bright,go from bright to off wen you signal,istead of dim to bright like others. You should chek into a n led fendertip light from www.heavycycles.com don't forget to use clear lensesfor maximum output.
 
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Old 07-19-2011, 05:50 PM
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I have a Truck-Lite that I installed a month or so ago. I had NO issues with fitment (what ever that is) and it's bright white even on the sunniest days. I don't feel $250 for a light that's bright white night AND day that will last for years and years is too much to pay if you're serious about wanting a BRIGHT LIGHT.
 
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Old 07-19-2011, 05:55 PM
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Originally Posted by DukeofEarl
Can you jury-rig the connection at the headlight opening (harness) or due you have to open up the fairing?
You have to open up the fairing but it's an easy modification. Here's how to do it....

To best understand how to connect into a circuit on the bike, it's important to know that with various circuits, the wires are color-coded. For example, the ACC circuit which is controlled by the ACC switch is Orange. The ACC feed (which is hot whenever the Ignition switch is in either the "Ign" or "ACC" position is colored Orange/Red. Anywhere you find an Orange/Red wire, it's part of that circuit. This includes in the fairing area and under the seat, going to the ACC plug (A4). Within the fairing area, the easiest place to connect to that circuit is on the hot feed to the cigarette lighter.

Coming up from the headlight is a plastic wire loom. Follow it back up to the top of the fairing area. At the very top, it's secured with a wire-tie. Cut the wire tie so you can get at the wires inside and fish out the two yellow wires. Spend some time figuring out which way the yellow wires go. One goes towards the left side of the bike to connect to the High/Low switch. The other one sorta goes towards the right side of the bike to merge in with a group of wires that end up at the inner fairing switches. That's the wire you want to cut. Once cut, protect the end coming up from the headlight. You can use electrical tape or, even better, some heat-shrink tubing. Now, using a piece of wire about 12" long, connect the remaining yellow wire to the Orange/Red wire going to the cigarette lighter. That pretty much does it.
 


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