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"built" 88ci?

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Old 07-18-2011, 08:17 AM
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Default "built" 88ci?

Hi all,

since I bought my '05 RK, I've been tossing around the idea of dropping a 95ci kit on it. Dealer says it would cost me about 2500 with cams... While I'm not broke, I am money wise, and prolly shouldn't drop another 2500 into this bike at the moment, so I got to thinking. Would it be worthwhile to put an upgraded set of cams in a stock bore 88ci? At the same time, while I was in there, do the tensioner swap. If this is a feasible task, can I do it? I have the HD shop manuals, and pretty good mechanical inclination. What would be good cams to use? Right now the bike sees about 50/50 city/hwy, but I plan on doing more highway than city in the future...

Give me your thoughts and if you're so willing, some usefull advice...

thanks,
sherwin
 
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Old 07-18-2011, 08:45 AM
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I had 203 cams done on my '05 Ultra at about 60,000 miles. While they were in there they replaced the stator, new cam plate and tensioners, etc. basically everything that could and should be replaced while they were in there. I think you get alot more bang for the buck with cams, etc. than a 95 kit. I noticed a big difference with the new cams.
 
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Old 07-18-2011, 08:46 AM
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I'd think it better to do the 95" without cams than just cams to an 88". Besides, $2500 sounds way high. They advertise $999 installed at the dealerships around here although that may be without the cams. Surely CAMs can;t be but another $500 installed though.
 
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Old 07-18-2011, 08:46 AM
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doing cams is as easy as changing oil, if you have any mechanical ability, dou a youtube search theres some good vids as well as threads on here.

2500 for a 95'' sounds high from the dealer

I personally wouldn't and won't do cams without headwork being done for the most bang for your buck. And with head work and matching cams you'll prolly never want to go 95''.

Find a reputable machinist/and motor builder and have the cams matched for final compression ratio and flows for valve timing and valve opening duration.

sure you can just throw a set of cams that are a little hotter, but the stock head will only flow so much, and most cams for what you are looking for want some more compression.

It's all 1 big happy scientific equasion that when put together properly you end up with a big smile and a woody.
 
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Old 07-18-2011, 08:49 AM
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Hey Sherwin,

Enjoy that 05RK, I know I have. I put in a set of S&S 510 gear driven cams in my 05. I went gear drive so I didn't have to worry about the tensioners anymore. Really woke the bike up, I was very pleased with the gain in performance by just doing a cam swap. It's not that hard to do if you have a service manual. Rather than take off the rocker boxes as stated in the manual to remove the push rods just cut them out and put adjustable rods back in, a lot less work that way. Others have put in Andrews 26 and other varities. You'll get many opinions on which cam to go with. Do a search, there is a lot of information about cam changes that has already been dicussed including many good write up's on doing a cam swap...Good Luck
 

Last edited by Road Ranger; 07-18-2011 at 08:51 AM.
  #6  
Old 07-18-2011, 08:55 AM
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...05 had restrictive heads...that's where you want to put some money...I would do cams..and have the heads flowed..keep the bore where it is to save money...she'll run real good...I mean you're only talking a difference of around 100cc between and 88 and a 95...no big whoop...
 
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Old 07-18-2011, 08:55 AM
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it sounds like you can handle a stage I upgrade to the new bore as a DIY project. Going Stage II as a DIY project can get hairy because of the special tools and push rod shimming processes.
 
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Old 07-18-2011, 09:01 AM
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I port polished the heads, used SE 95 heads, Andrews 37G cam, SE tuner.

HP 100 and TQ 106

Yes it was worth it to me with out question. If you don't polish the heads you will loose a lot of HP an TQ. In my opinion go the entire distance all at one time or don't do any of it. Most doing the 95 Kit do not polish the heads and to me that is a major negative to what you want to create.

If you do not have stage I before build you must do that also.
 

Last edited by csbreeze; 07-18-2011 at 09:03 AM.
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Old 07-18-2011, 09:45 AM
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Hello Sherwin, it sounds like your dealer is trying to hose you or they are looking to fund the "winter slow down fund" that most dealers experience come September .
$2500.00 Canadian is a bit on the steep side, but if that includes the parts install and fluids and if this is a fuel infected bike the needed ECM flashes , then it sounds like a reasonable deal.
But, if there are add ons aftr this then it will get expensive real fast.
I have the SE 203 Cams, SE 95 Big Bore installed and I am into it with a dyno tune close to $3500.00 .
This is because it has been done over the course of several years of riding and upgrading, not a one stop install where the time to re and re chain tensioners can be done all in one step.
Call a couple dealers in say Alberta and Manitoba and see what they say and go from there.
Rob in Vancouver.
 
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Old 07-18-2011, 10:00 AM
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If its a choice of big bore (95) or cams only do the cams much more bang for the $. There are a lot of good threads on the softail section on this choice. I like the SE 204 cams or SE 255 with stock heads, definatly add the SE Hyd Tensioner Kit when your in there with the high flow oil pump, this way you woont have to de tensioners for another 60 -75 miles.

Fuel Moto and You tube have a lot of good videos on how to change out your cams. If you have basic tools and common sense its an easy job. Ask Drew at Dr V Twin he has done a couple sets for the first time this past year. The only special tools are a blind hole bearing puller and you can rent it for a couple bucks at any Auto Zone. Every thing else is basic. Read the threads there are short cuts that everyone uses like the freeze r method for the bearing and use the old bearing and cam to insert the new bearings etc.

Save your self a 1000 or more and spent 1 day to do it yourself.
 


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