I replaced my stock cable with a Diamondback. Very smooth and much lighter action than the old stock one. I haven't compared new with new, but I'm impressed and pleased with it. The action is so much better that I removed the Clutchlite device I had.

 

I used Magnum when i did my 14" retro and am replacing them as time goes by. They are worse than Barnett and that says a lot. I started replacing mine with the clutch cable from a munufacturer that sells on ebay (Hill country customs). It's the best quality and pricing I've ever seen. I discovered them when I did an ape project for my wifes bike. They'll even custom make a size for you if they don't stock the length you need. I find that quit handy.
I also recommend you don't adjust the cabling too frequently. The cable stretches in time and if your too **** with adjusting the free play like i used too be, you'll soon run out of adjustment theads on the adjuster. Just do it every 10k or so and the cable will last longer...trust me.

 

Never had any trouble with magnums. Also, if you run out of adjustment at he mid cable adjuster, you are probably not doing your clutch adjustment correctly per the FSM (Adjusting the bolt in the pressure plate). I really like their clutch cable adjuster because you don't have the huge goofy rubber bellows over it. If you do buy Magnums, find the part# you need and check amazon. I have scored some great deals on there.

 

Could you recite your adjustment technique for us please, if I'm doing it wrong I'm not too proud to be taught another way .

 

This is per factory service manual:

CLUTCH ADJUSTMENT
At the 1000 mile (1,600 km) service interval, and at every
5000 mile (8,000 km) service interval thereafter, adjust the
clutch as follows:
CAUTION
Perform the clutch adjustment with the motorcycle at
room temperature. The clearance at the adjuster screw
will increase as the powertrain temperature increases. If
adjuster screw is adjusted while the powertrain is hot,
clearance at push rod bearing could be insufficient with
powertrain cold and clutch slippage could occur.
NOTE
Perform adjustment procedure whenever clutch components
are replaced during normal servicing. Repeat adjustment
after 500 miles (800 km) of use.
1. Stand vehicle upright and level.
2. Using a T27 TORX drive head, remove five screws (with
captive washers) to free clutch inspection cover from primary
chaincase cover.
3. See Figure 1-6. Slide rubber boot off cable adjuster.
Holding cable adjuster with 1/2 inch wrench, loosen jam
nut using a 9/16 inch wrench. Back jam nut away from
cable adjuster. Move adjuster toward jam nut to introduce
a large amount of free play at hand lever.
4. See Figure 1-8. Loosen locknut on clutch adjuster screw.
To take up all free play in push rods, turn screw inward
(clockwise) until lightly seated.
5. Back out adjuster screw 1/2 to 1 turn. While holding
adjuster screw with an allen wrench, tighten locknut to
72-120
in-lbs
(8-14 Nm).
6. Squeeze clutch lever to maximum limit three times to set
ball and ramp release mechanism.
7. Turn cable adjuster away from jam nut until slack is eliminated
at hand lever. Pull clutch cable ferrule away from
clutch lever bracket to check free play. Turn cable
adjuster as necessary to obtain 1/16 to 1/8 inch (1.6 -
3.2 mm) free play between end of cable ferrule and
clutch lever bracket, as shown in Figure 1-7.
8. Hold adjuster with 1/2 inch wrench. Using 9/16 inch
wrench, tighten jam nut against cable adjuster. Cover
cable adjuster mechanism with rubber boot.
9. Remove quad ring from groove in primary chaincase
cover. Wipe all lubricant from the quad ring and inspect
for cuts, tears or signs of deterioration. Replace as necessary.
10. Swab all lubricant from the quad ring groove. Install
quad ring in primary chaincase cover with the nubs contacting
the ring groove walls.
11. Using a T27 TORX drive head, install five screws (with
captive washers) to secure clutch inspection cover to the
primary chaincase cover. Alternately tighten screws to
84-108in-lbs