Why do I need a reamer for on a Rocker plate?
#1
07-13-2011, 01:57 PM
Why do I need a reamer for on a Rocker plate?
I am thinking about replacing my rockers, plate and bushings. I keep seeing a reamer both spoke about and used in various articles and was wondering I need one?
I have a click/tick that is coming from the exhaust rod and am thinking it may be my rockers/plate that may have suffered an ill-fated OOPPSSSS upon the rods being placed 180 out on rebuild.
We checked the rods already, stock, they are 100% good. Replaced the lifters. Still there. Now we are thinking the rocker arms may be out a tad or the plate is warped/bent. I have new rocker arms and was looking at the plate and bushings. What ya'll think?
I have a click/tick that is coming from the exhaust rod and am thinking it may be my rockers/plate that may have suffered an ill-fated OOPPSSSS upon the rods being placed 180 out on rebuild.
We checked the rods already, stock, they are 100% good. Replaced the lifters. Still there. Now we are thinking the rocker arms may be out a tad or the plate is warped/bent. I have new rocker arms and was looking at the plate and bushings. What ya'll think?
Last edited by SecondChance!!; 07-13-2011 at 02:26 PM.
#2
07-13-2011, 02:25 PM
I am thinking about replacing my rockers, plate and bushings. I keep seeing a reamer both spoke about and used in various articles and was wondering I need one?
I have a click/tick that is coming from the exhaust rod and am thinking it may be my rockers/plate that may have suffered an ill-fated OOPPSSSS upon the rods being placed 180 out on rebuild.
We checked the rods already, stock, they are 100% good. Replaced the lifters. Still there. Now we are thinking the rocker arms may be out a tad or the plate is warped/bent. I have new arms and was looking at the plate and bushings. What ya'll think?
I have a click/tick that is coming from the exhaust rod and am thinking it may be my rockers/plate that may have suffered an ill-fated OOPPSSSS upon the rods being placed 180 out on rebuild.
We checked the rods already, stock, they are 100% good. Replaced the lifters. Still there. Now we are thinking the rocker arms may be out a tad or the plate is warped/bent. I have new arms and was looking at the plate and bushings. What ya'll think?
The bushings may not need to be reamed. If you have the service manual, the service limits of the shaft to bushing clearance is provided. The rocker bushings are all a standard dimension; don't know what the is. Check the shaft OD agains the new busing bore ID and if the clearance is withing spec, install without reaming. If the clearance is too tight, bushings will need to be reamed; if the clearance is too loose, replace the shafts. I think I would replace the shafts anyway, they are not expensive.
How do you "place rods 180 out" anyway?
#3
07-13-2011, 05:16 PM
When bushings are pressed into a bore the I.D. of the bushing usually compresses. It is just standard machine shop practice to ream a bushing to the proper I.D. Also when a part is drilled it will usually be a couple of thousandths over the size of the drill's size. A 1/2 " drilled hole will measure in the neighborhood of .502. Drilling a part 1/64" undersize and reaming it to size is the proper way to get a hole the right size.
#4
07-14-2011, 01:07 AM
You will get more responses if you post this in the Engine section.
The bushings may not need to be reamed. If you have the service manual, the service limits of the shaft to bushing clearance is provided. The rocker bushings are all a standard dimension; don't know what the is. Check the shaft OD agains the new busing bore ID and if the clearance is withing spec, install without reaming. If the clearance is too tight, bushings will need to be reamed; if the clearance is too loose, replace the shafts. I think I would replace the shafts anyway, they are not expensive.
How do you "place rods 180 out" anyway?
The bushings may not need to be reamed. If you have the service manual, the service limits of the shaft to bushing clearance is provided. The rocker bushings are all a standard dimension; don't know what the is. Check the shaft OD agains the new busing bore ID and if the clearance is withing spec, install without reaming. If the clearance is too tight, bushings will need to be reamed; if the clearance is too loose, replace the shafts. I think I would replace the shafts anyway, they are not expensive.
How do you "place rods 180 out" anyway?
#6
07-14-2011, 11:09 AM
OK, pushrods; misse that. Rods = connecting rods to me; my bad. Exhaust is a tad longer than the intake so you could have very well bent a pushrod and/or a valve. Valves are much easier to bend than you would think. Like Lonewolf says, check compression.
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