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Replacing the rear brake light switch

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  #21  
Old 07-07-2011, 02:33 PM
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When mine stuck on I unpluged one wire from the switch, to make it home. Now I kind of like having only the front brake control the brake light. I use the rear brake in parking lots and gas stations or any very low speed riding and do not need the brake light on for that. I may leave it this way for now.
 
  #22  
Old 07-07-2011, 04:04 PM
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https://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/R...&Dk=1&Dp=3&N=0 napa auto parts stores have all kinds of switches. they run about $10. take the old switch out and put the new one in. when the new one is out put your finger over the hole to block the fluid, take the new one and put it in. have the new one out of the box and ready to go. simple as that.
 
  #23  
Old 07-07-2011, 04:47 PM
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I repalced my on the road one time without bleeding....Hold a little presssure on the break pedal and remove the switch and put the new one in....Very little fuild lost and I bet most dealer do it this way and charge you for bleeding the brakes.
 
  #24  
Old 07-07-2011, 05:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Jerry1834
I repalced my on the road one time without bleeding....Hold a little presssure on the break pedal and remove the switch and put the new one in....Very little fuild lost and I bet most dealer do it this way and charge you for bleeding the brakes.
+1 and I have bled my rear brake twice now without the Dig Tech. I also have ABS and my brakes still operate perfectly.
 
  #25  
Old 07-07-2011, 05:04 PM
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20 on ebay, i replaced it with a quick swap brakkes are fine with no bleed
 
  #26  
Old 07-07-2011, 06:29 PM
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Mine just went at 6700 miles, going to try the Advanced Auto Parts version (thanks Artlee).

I don't have ABS but as for bleeding I use a 2' piece of clear 1/4" hose and a clear jar. Place one end of the hose over the bleeder valve and the other end in the jar, then pour enough brake fluid in the jar to completely cover the hose end. Crack open the bleeder valve, slowly pump the brake and watch the air bubbles come through the hose and bubble in the fluid in the jar. Keep doing until no more air then close the valve. As long as the other end of the hose stays in the fluid no air gets in. Learned that on my 69 Mustang back in the day. Think I'll try some sort of heat shield too.
 
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  #27  
Old 07-09-2011, 07:18 AM
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I probably wouldn't have a problem taking some of your suggestions if it wasn't for the ABS. If I ever have to use the ABS in a panic situation and the rear brake fails because of the slightest bit of air in the system I may not have to worry about saving a few bucks.

It just doesn't seem like it would take the dealer an hour to install a new switch and bleed the brakes. It's probably not a case of taking that long as it is charging for an hour.
 
  #28  
Old 07-09-2011, 07:53 AM
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Well, peace of mind is worth a few bucks for sure. An old time HD tech taught me the trick of holding the brake pedal down a little before removing the switch and it does work....No air gets into the lines and you lose hardley any fluid.
 
  #29  
Old 07-09-2011, 08:14 AM
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I flushed the whole system anyway, no need for digitech, flushed a whole bottle of brake fluid through system (supposed to be done every two years anyway). Waited til it started raining then went and tested ABS no problem.
 
  #30  
Old 07-09-2011, 12:45 PM
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Guess I'm on the list now as well. Mine went out, dealer will replace it under warranty next week.
 


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