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Replacing the rear brake light switch

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  #11  
Old 07-06-2011, 10:56 AM
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I guess mine is bad too. the brake light does not come on when I use the rear brakes. So I just make sure I use the front also to make the light come on and warn others behind me. damn if i'm gonna pay over a hundred bucks for a brake light.
 
  #12  
Old 07-06-2011, 12:29 PM
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Originally Posted by vzts4q
For all those who have had a rear brake switch failure I would suggest that you put some kind of heat wrap around the switch. From all the posts here about this failure it seems that the heat from the exhaust is the cause of this failure. And that some sort of thermal barrier would help.
Auto makers have used this type of product for years to help protect switches and other components.
Here is one product I found with a Google search.
http://www.heatshieldproducts.com/pr...-shield/102/43
That's exactly what I was thinking about. Located between the exhaust and the hot engine block it does get a lot of heat.

Thanks for the part number guys.
 
  #13  
Old 07-07-2011, 10:42 AM
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Originally Posted by locodude
I guess mine is bad too. the brake light does not come on when I use the rear brakes. So I just make sure I use the front also to make the light come on and warn others behind me. damn if i'm gonna pay over a hundred bucks for a brake light.
Mine failed with the contacts closed so my tail light was always on and people could not see it go brighter when I stopped. Also, my cruise control did not work.

Changing it and bleeding the system on my '06 EGC wasn't hard at all.
 
  #14  
Old 07-07-2011, 11:25 AM
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Changed mine on my 10 rg with abs, didn't get enough air in it that the pedal feel was effected so I didn't bleed, suppose it may depend on how long you have the system open. wonder how much the dealer would charge just to bleed the rear if you changed your own switch andf found it did need bled. thinking the heat wrap may not be a bad idea
 
  #15  
Old 07-07-2011, 12:04 PM
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mine went bad as well at 19k miles, but it under warranty
 
  #16  
Old 07-07-2011, 12:08 PM
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Mine went bad at about 35k on my 08 RG. Dealer replaced it under warranty. I'm definitely going to look into the heat shield stuff!
 
  #17  
Old 07-07-2011, 12:15 PM
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I just did mine this weekend took 1/2 hour, flushed the brake fluid too. No digital tech needed, tested the abs it works fine.almost 50k miles now so I am not too fissed, the heat wrap sounds like a good idea, think water getting inside the plugs could be an issue too on some of them.
 
  #18  
Old 07-07-2011, 12:26 PM
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Originally Posted by themensh
The part number for my '09 brake switch was 72023-51D....$26.99.
My bike is under warranty so I had a dealer do it.

chuck
I used advanced auto parts S551 ( which crossed from 72023-51C ) http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...R%7CGRPSESWAMS____
$10.00. I did not have to bleed the rear brake ( did have to top off the reservoir ), but I have a different bike.
Good luck.
 
  #19  
Old 07-07-2011, 12:46 PM
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Originally Posted by SIDECAR BOB
Changed mine on my 10 rg with abs, didn't get enough air in it that the pedal feel was effected so I didn't bleed, suppose it may depend on how long you have the system open. wonder how much the dealer would charge just to bleed the rear if you changed your own switch andf found it did need bled. thinking the heat wrap may not be a bad idea
My dealer charge $85 just for the installation and labor to bleed. The service manual states there is a special tool "Digital Technician II" (HD-48650) to bleed rear brake on my '09 Ultra Classic with ABS.

Another fairly close dealer wants $112 for the same service. WOW!
 

Last edited by shortride; 07-07-2011 at 01:16 PM.
  #20  
Old 07-07-2011, 02:26 PM
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Tell your dealer you want it replaced and the brakes bled under warranty even if the bike is out of warranty. If he won't do it, call the HD area rep and plead your case to him. This may be one of those things HD will take care of because of the widespread failures with these switches. Worked for me. I've had mine replaced twice.
 


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