I have had the 2-3s for almost 2 years and I think they are great. The improvement over the Works shock I had is dramatic and the improvement of the Works over the stock shocks was dramatic. The more expensive Olhins may be much better but I don't really need a better ride with better control than what the 2-3s give me.

 

Howard sounds like a great guy and extremely knowledgeable about suspensions & Ohlins in particular. I've visited his site at leas 20 times and it's just confusing past the 2nd #2s(?) shock, as everything runs together, with no explanation of applications or characteristics of the specific shock or a comparison tool for the different shocks.

I don't mean this to be a criticism of Howard or the business Motorcycle Metal's apparent great products, service, and support. It would serve him well however, to have a specialist organize the site. There are large number of people who would love to replace the crappy HD suspension, and at the same time learn enough about the product being sold so you could be more definitive about your questions before you inundate Howard with too many basic questions.

 

I couldn't see spending big money for Ohlins and getting emulsion shocks, so I went with the #3s.

 

Another very happy customer of Howards, in the UK! I had a similar experience with my wife, after fitting 'our' Ohlins. While touring she reckons we can travel several days longer on them than the previous Brand X shocks. She recently bought a new SuperLow and while riding on my Glide some while later said how she finds the Glide much more comfortable than the SuperLow.

As for Howard's website, it rewards patience! If you use the index on the left of the screen and select 'Touring Ohlins' there are four versions that fit our bikes: #1 are the polished alloy ones; #2 the Emulsified ones (that means the oil and gas inside mix together); #3 the Separated ones (that means the oil and gas inside are kept separate = better); #6 have remote reservoirs (= even better!). All bar the #6 are available in different lengths, which is where the second number comes from - I have #3-3, which are close to stock length. #4 and #5 versions are for other models.

Hope that helps! It is very well worth working it all out.

 

So, how does the #6 remote reservoir equate to (=even better) then the #3-3s and isn't the purpose of the remote reservoir is to dissipate heat and for our particular use which is riding touring bikes; even on bad roads that the #6 version may be an over kill. Still can't justified twice the cost.

 

Check his website and phone Howard! There is no such thing as overkill where high quality suspension is concerned IMHO. But that is something we must each judge for ourselves. All that those of us fitting top shocks like Ohlins are doing is using the same brand that BMW and Yamaha fit. Ain't nuttin' wrong with that. If the factory fitted its top range bikes with top drawer shocks this forum would be a more lonely place!

 

I only have a few minutes to answer this question as our member requested me to do so.

The reason why there is different models is because of the added accessories to the basic #2 shock. By adding features to a great shock the performance increases. Please remember that just because a company produces a shock that looks like an Ohlins does not by any stretch of the imagination will perform like an Ohlins. There are many differences which is proved out on the track. There is no difference in the principle of suspension either it be dirt, snow, or the pavement on the track or street. Only the application and settings change.



#3:

• This model has a separator piston (located in the shock body) which eliminates the frothing that all emulsified shocks produce when the shocks are actively in use such as a stretch of broken or washboard pavement. Your oil and nitrogen mixes into a froth such as what is found in a milk shake. The shock piston/shim stacks (valving) can not meter the oil as well when in this condition. Shock fade than failure soon follow if the riding conditions remain the same.
• This model has a sweep valve which adjusts/meters the amount oil that is pushed through the piston circuits onto the shim stack. The oil is slowed down by the shim stack thus the shock is controlling the movement. When introducing the needle valve, the adjust of the needle valve allows some of the percentage of oil to bypass the shim stacks and go to the other side of the piston. This allows the owner to set the amount of resistance of change to be controlled to suit the present road conditions and/or riders style at that particular time.

#6

• This model has a separator piston (located in the external reservoir body) which eliminates the frothing that all emulsified shocks produce when the shocks are actively in use such as a stretch of broken or washboard pavement. Your oil and nitrogen mixes into a froth such as what is found in a milk shake. The shock piston/shim stacks (valving) can not meter the oil as well when in this condition. Shock fade than failure soon follow if the riding conditions remain the same. All emulsified shocks no matter who makes them suffer from this problem. With relocating the separator piston into the reservoir a longer stroke can be designed into the assembly utilizing the same length body.
• The compression and rebound act independently of each other. The compression valve found in the reservoir is very expensive as sophisticated. The oil is metered differently than that of a sweep needle valve as this compression/rebound system acts independently of each other. Want more compression and less rebound? You have it. This exact reservoir/compression system was found on F-1 cars up unit 2 seasons ago when they went to the faster TTX system.

The level of riders skill in knowing as well as the amount of effort invested into how to set up their bikes suspension should be the determining factor into what sort of equipment is right for you. If you are interested in just bouncing down the road at slower speeds, I agree, this is overkill. If you wish to work/learn and own the best shocks designed to fit onto a Harley Davidson "Bagger" up to this date and have a use for the ultimate in comfort and performance, you may wish to research further. Does the #6 ride and under more extreme conditions handle better, you bet as I know both products.

Ohlins does not give away anything, so I have to pay the same price as if I order suspension for a customer. I ride & test all, so I know the difference between all products as well as other manufacturers products. I have the 30mm cartridges inside of my inverted forks as well as the #6 shocks on my own bike. Ya, I am a customer also.

 

By the way, I just noticed that the website was also updated, folks, and it is easier to tell what is what!

-Sin'

 

The 6's are Howards own creation; they were 2009's pinacle INDY shock at around $20K each (or more I can't remember what he said, either way it was a sh!tload of money per each). For Indy they are now old news, so Howard swung some kind of deal to get the housings and modified the valving to suit our tourning bikes. The valving technolgy far exceeds anything else availavle currently and presently this is the best shock you can get for a Harley touring bike, period. I couldn't afford them, they are the best, but that doesn't mean there is anything wrong with the 3-3's, cause they are still better than anything else available except the 6's.

 

Before guys get sticker shock, the #2 versions are outstanding. Ohlins emulsion shocks are excellent and there are very, very, very few guys out there that have the need or the skills(riding or shock tuning) for anything "better".