Well, I put about 1200 on my new Street Glide and had the dealership come pick it up for the first round of upgrades and 1k maintenance. I had them install V&H Power Duals, Monster Round slip on mufflers, Stage I SE Air Kit and dyno tune the bike via Race Tuner.

Bike made 79HP & 93 TQ. I could care less about the numbers but what does everyone think about them for the mods? Reason I ask is the dyno sheet they provided me with indicates that they made at least 17 pulls with my bike!!!! I don't know crap about dyno tuning motorcycles but I do own my own Dynojet chassis dyno and build performance cars for a living, to include custom dyno tuning. We can dyno tune an 800HP car with lots of boost in 2 or 3 pulls and the computers and electrical systems in these cars are far more complex then a freaking motorcycle! A/F fluctuates from 13.5 to 14.5 throughout the pull, is that normal range for a motorcycle?

Also, I made it very clear to them that I did not want baffles in the mufflers when they custom dyno tune the bike. Well, they left the baffles in and told me if I remove them the bike will need dyno tuned again and it will run like crap. So my question is, are they feeding me a bunch of bullshit cause they screwed up or is my combo easily re tuned without the baffles as long as the person that is doing the tuning actually knows what they are doing?

Any and all feedback appreciated. I was really looking forward to getting my bike back but now I am very disappointed. It sounds good but is way to quiet for my taste, they also scratched the crap out of the left cylinder chrome heat shield on the power duals pipe.

 

In many posts having to do with dyno tuning, there is talk about doing 40 - 60 runs to get a bike really dialed in. My dealer did pretty much the same thing as yours...11 runs total. I posted the results and the responders indicated that I got ripped off. Since then, I have been doing some tuning using the Smart Tune feature of the Race Tuner. So far, I've done 3 tuning runs and the bike runs a lot better. I'm certainly no expert in this area but I though I'd share my experiences with you.

 

I appreciate the response Ken! I took the bike for a quick lap around the neighborhood, runs fine and sounds good but not the decibal level I was looking for. I yanked the baffles out real quick and went for another ride, decibal level was right were I wanted it but the bike sounds terrible. I decided to take off all the "insulation" that was wrapped all around the baffles and reinstalled them. Bike still runs fine and sound fine, slightly louder then before. Weather should permit a nice ride at some point this weekend so I will decide what I want to do after I put some real miles on the new setup. At this point though, I am inclined to just leave the stripped down baffles in place. I love the way the tips and rest of the exhaust looks, I don't want to pull my hair out over slip ons!

Mike

 

Man this dyno thing is just great for making money for dealers.

I remember these things called carburettors. When you changed the pipes you changed a jet that cost about $1.25, adjusted the idle settings and off you go. The stealers have managed to convince us we need to spend hundreds on tuners and tuning just to change pipes and air cleaner.

Look, you never needed a dyno tune in the first place. Your dealer has fitted hundreds of stage 1 kits and they have the canned map that would be just fine. They are tying to make money to pay off their dyno and pay off their new boat.

 

Ya, but it's his money to do with as he pleases. I had my bike dyno'd by Jamie at fuelmoto, and for 195.00 I feel it was money well spent. Yes, a canned map most times can run very well (I ran on one for over a year, and had no problems at all), and get numbers close to what a dyno tune can do, but if you want every bit of performance out of your bike, the dyno will get you that last 3-4 HP and TQ, and more importantly, if you've got a good tuner, keep your A/F ratio near perfect in all RPM ranges. I would be however, very hesitant to use a dealer's techs and dyno to tune my bike. Many, many times the people there doing the tunes are relatively clueless. I'd go to a dyno specialist everytime if I had a reputable one in my area.

And to the OP, those are not bad numbers at all for a simple Stage 1.

 

I agree its his money etc. But I am trying to get the word out that you dont need the dyno, and indeed there isnt any point in doing it.

3-4 hp is 5% of 70hp. Dynos arent that accurate, they struggle to get +-15%. So you are spending money on fixing something that you cant even reliably measure.

Secondly, the engine just isnt that sensitive to AFR. as long as its between about 11.5:1 and 14:1 you will be fine. How did you think we lived with carbys for so long.

Anyhow, dyno away if it floats your boat.

 

Monster Rounds are not a loud muffer,
if you wanted the same look but loud: you should have gotten the Hi-Output Rounds.
http://www.vanceandhines.com/product.../hioutput.html

 

I had a guy tune my bike with a scannalyzer?? I couldn't get a canned map for my setup, but I tried one anyway and the bike worked like crap after I did headwork. I don't have dyno access anyhow but I can tell you my bike works absolutely perfect now although I don't have a dyno sheet with numbers to post. I don't care about numbers - what I care about is power when I hit the throttle and that's what I have!!

 

Same setup as you. Roughly 78hp and 93tq. I don't know how you got the baffles out of your Monster Rounds, but V&H puts them in there really tight. I ordered a replacement baffle to replace the one they had to drill out for the O2 sniffers, and couldn't get the baffle out. Also the Monster Rounds don't have any packing around the baffles.
Bike will run different with and without baffles. You're changing the back pressure.
My AFR is at a Flat 13 all the way across.

 

Do they have the same sound? I ask because I put a few hundred miles on the new setup this weekend. The bike is noticeably louder then stock but now that I have some seat time with the new combo, the bike just doesn't have the sound I am looking for. I would like it to be louder which sounds like your suggestion might be the right choice but I don't want even the slightest hint of the hollow tinned can sound that I have now with the current combo.