Circuit breakers
#1
Circuit breakers
can circuit breakers get weak over time?
i have a 91 electra glide and sometimes for no reason the bike will just quit running and won't start for about 5 minuts and then starts up and runs fine.
Yesterday i went on a 200mile ride and when i got a couple of blocks from home she quit at a stop sign so i pushed her to the side and tryed to start it but no go........waited 5 min and then she started and i drove home...........its got me stumped
james
i have a 91 electra glide and sometimes for no reason the bike will just quit running and won't start for about 5 minuts and then starts up and runs fine.
Yesterday i went on a 200mile ride and when i got a couple of blocks from home she quit at a stop sign so i pushed her to the side and tryed to start it but no go........waited 5 min and then she started and i drove home...........its got me stumped
james
#2
Just an idea-- you may want to post this in the Evo Classic section for more input.
I suggest if you post it there more detail would be valuable, such as:
How it shuts down-- just dies in the **** or pops, wanders, backfires through the carb etc.
Any engine mods? OEM carb or other?
BTW circuit breakers can weaken-- could be heat related-- also contacts get corroded, etc. as well.
Good luck!
I suggest if you post it there more detail would be valuable, such as:
How it shuts down-- just dies in the **** or pops, wanders, backfires through the carb etc.
Any engine mods? OEM carb or other?
BTW circuit breakers can weaken-- could be heat related-- also contacts get corroded, etc. as well.
Good luck!
#3
#4
Sounds like the typical Ignition trouble.
I'd start with checking the cam sensor. You can test this by opening up the cover and heat the unit with a hair dryer type device while idling. If when it gets hot it dies you have just located the real issue.
When the ignition module goes it can be wacky too. It can work for an hour and then start causing missing, or kills the motor completely. You must find out if you have spark at the moment the engine dies (warmed up). When testing it you do not turn off the ignition when it dies. Turning off and on the ignition can reset a problem .... leaving the ignition on when it dies, and putting in a test plug for spark can help pin down the issue too.
Too many chase the problem back and forth with it being either gas (gas flow) or electrical. Knowing which issue it really is can keep you from damaging things that are not the issue.
With electrical all it takes is a little bit of corrosion on a connection / contact, or something that is slightly loose. Also on older bikes you get conditions where wires rub the frame and short out, or break the inner wire. When broken wires get hot the insulation stretches and the wire inside breaks contact, or starts to short out. Let it shrink up when it cools and the broken wires touch again and work, or close up a gap in insulation.
I'd start with checking the cam sensor. You can test this by opening up the cover and heat the unit with a hair dryer type device while idling. If when it gets hot it dies you have just located the real issue.
When the ignition module goes it can be wacky too. It can work for an hour and then start causing missing, or kills the motor completely. You must find out if you have spark at the moment the engine dies (warmed up). When testing it you do not turn off the ignition when it dies. Turning off and on the ignition can reset a problem .... leaving the ignition on when it dies, and putting in a test plug for spark can help pin down the issue too.
Too many chase the problem back and forth with it being either gas (gas flow) or electrical. Knowing which issue it really is can keep you from damaging things that are not the issue.
With electrical all it takes is a little bit of corrosion on a connection / contact, or something that is slightly loose. Also on older bikes you get conditions where wires rub the frame and short out, or break the inner wire. When broken wires get hot the insulation stretches and the wire inside breaks contact, or starts to short out. Let it shrink up when it cools and the broken wires touch again and work, or close up a gap in insulation.
#5
#6
+1 on the bad connection theory. I would check for loose/corroded connectors in the circuit. Start with the ones that flex, vibrate or what ever (Battery Plus and Minus first). Rarely do the connectors become loose without outside influence but it can happen.
Only after you have checked, tightened or replaced the connectors that require it should you look for more exotic reasons. Do Not recrimp connectors you may get the results you want initially but you will cause your self more problems for the future. Use new connectors when you need to correct the crimp.
Only after you have checked, tightened or replaced the connectors that require it should you look for more exotic reasons. Do Not recrimp connectors you may get the results you want initially but you will cause your self more problems for the future. Use new connectors when you need to correct the crimp.
#7
thanks for all the input folks........the bike is 20 years old and i have had lots of trouble with plugs and connections and i thought i went through the entire bikes wiring harness and cleaned everything that could be cleaned (s/s toothbrush and contact cleaner/lube/anticorrosion) im pretty sure its the breaker and for the price im changing all of them
the bike is stock other than an k/n airfilter and i rejetted it as stock was to lean......also have a automatic chain tensioner comming for it
james
the bike is stock other than an k/n airfilter and i rejetted it as stock was to lean......also have a automatic chain tensioner comming for it
james
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